Today is going to be one of the hottest yet in Boston, 102°F (38.9°C) predicted as of this writing, plus crazy humid. You can bet that we’re not cooking tonight. I feel especially for those in Europe who aren’t used to this heat, and have never before felt the need for AC. I can’t imagine walking around Paris or parts of Germany in 104°+ heat. Even Venice was showing a high of near 100°. They’re even deploying water cannons in cities to help with the blistering heat.
Which is why I’m reposting one of my more popular posts, of summer in Rome in years past, when they didn’t have water cannons, and instead used to flood Piazza Navona to help with the heat.
Piazza Navona, one of Rome’s most renowned public spaces, has long been cherished for its rich history, stunning architecture, and vibrant atmosphere. It’s certainly one of my absolute favorite places. Sitting on the piazza, enjoying a spritz, listening to the buskers, and watching people—that constitutes a perfect time for me.
In the 1st century AD, Piazza Navona was the site of the Stadium of Domitian, a venue for athletic contests, known as agones. This is why the area kept the name agone which later evolved into navone and eventually Navona. Back then, the stadium was encircled by taverns and lupanari (ancient brothels). Later, in medieval times, it was the site of a vast market. It wasn’t until the Baroque period that the piazza started to take its present shape. Pope Innocent X commissioned the construction of the Fontana dei Quattro Fiumi (Fountain of the Four Rivers) in the center of the piazza, designed by the legendary Italian artist Gian Lorenzo Bernini. He also moved the market to Campo dei Fiori, to clean up the area and make the view more palatable for his lover, Olimpia Maidalchini (she was married to the Pope’s brother) from Palazzo Pamphilji (which now houses the Brazilian embassy).
If you ask me, it really is one of the most gorgeous piazzas ever dreamed up. Here’s what it normally looks like.
Another interesting thing that occurred during the pontificate of Innocent X was the start of a unique tradition: the summer flooding of the piazza. The drains of the fountains would be blocked, allowing water to gradually fill the square, creating a temporary "Lake Navona.” It was a grand spectacle, a way for the nobility to flaunt their power, and provide a respite from the summer heat for the populace. It lasted for two centuries, from 1651 until 1867, when they raised the level of the piazza.
The process of flooding the square was quite straightforward. The water for the fountains was supplied by the Aqua Virgo, one of the ancient aqueducts of Rome. To flood the piazza, the drains of the three fountains were sealed off, allowing the water to gradually fill the square’s concave basin. This would typically occur overnight, transforming the piazza into a temporary lake by morning.
For the Romans, who were accustomed to the scorching summer heat, this event was not just a display of power or a spectacle, but also a means of relief. The shallow lake was a playground for children and a place where adults could cool off. Small boats would be brought into the square, adding to the festive atmosphere.
The practice of flooding Piazza Navona stopped in the mid-19th century due to health and safety concerns.
Wild huh? I imagine that the summer tourists there in the blistering heat right now were wishing for a Navona lake!
Down south of Rome, in Salerno, they flood the streets in the annual “A Chiena di Campagna” a water festival that floods the streets. Every Saturday and Sunday from July 16-Aug 17, they throw water around in what was originally a way to clean the streets, but now, with all the heatwaves this summer, has certainly become a way to beat the heat. Click through the below to see what I mean. It looks like fun!
My friend Jennifer S. Brown (also her Substack is SO hilarious and a must subscribe) turned me on to Uncrossy in last week’s comments.
I worship the ground that Mary Beard walks on, and this new documentary just cements that further.
If you love books and you want a great cozy game to play, Librarian: Tidy Up the Arcane Library will do the trick for you. It’s crazy how addictive it is to just sort books.
If you love food and love Italy, and haven’t read IN THE GARDEN OF MONSTERS, THE CHEF’S SECRET, or FEAST OF SORROW, click the links to learn where to buy your copy! And now you can order my latest, THE HAPPINESS COLLECTOR!
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