Eating nihari in Lahore when I visited the city in May 2023 changed my life.
Slow-cooked lamb shank stirred all day and all night in a huge cauldron so that it flakes off the bone, served with a spoonful of ghee, a sprinkle of chopped green chillies and a squeeze of lime, alongside a naan.
Soon after my return to London later that year, surfing YouTube for places to source the same peppery excellence, I found Raavi Kebab. Conveniently, it’s in the centre of town, perfect for arriving back from a cross-country train journey.
Every couple of months, when I am craving comfort food after work, I walk from my office in Shoreditch for about an hour to Drummond Street by Euston Station, famed for its rows of South Asian eateries.
Raavi is not really a hidden gem for the many who already know it well — like other ventures on the street, it’s been there since the 1970s (you can read an interview with the owner here) — but the unititiated will easily miss it.
The vibe inside is unique: a humble, cafe-style cavern with Islamic verse framed on the wall, a handful of small tables, usually frequented by other solo travellers or small groups speaking quietly to one another, and the same uncle every time standing at the front meticulously twiddling kebabs on the charcoal grill.
It’s very affordable — go with a friend and £20 each (paid for in cash) will get you a long way. Every dish I’ve tried has been great, including a range of vegetable options (classic Punjabi dishes like cholay, saag, paneer etc), but the nihari is standout, alongside the kebabs, Lahori fried fish and chicken curry on the bone.
They make their own chilli sauce to go with the kebabs; their mango lassi is perfect; the naans come out fast and fluffy. And if you’re still hungry at the end, they have homemade matka kulfi for dessert.
It’s super calm in there, you can sit and meditate over the flavours. When I’m not introducing guests to the space I usually bring a book, write my diary or stick on a podcast and let the food do its thing.
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