One of the most important products money can buy.. SPF is a godsend and an essential. But its hard to find a good one, and even harder to find a good tinted or mineral SPF.
These two are my least favorite category of skin care. In fact I would go so far to say I kind of despise them (i don’t say this lightly). The majority of the mineral and tinted SPFs belong in the exact same classifications: under-delivering, overpromising, and cosmetically inelegant SHITE.. The vast majority do not actually improve or enhance the skin, but rather make it look worse… highlighting flaws you don’t want to show or creating new ones.
And please don't get me started on "luxury" SPFs… spending $130 to $400 on sunscreen is complete and utter bullshit. It doesn’t protect you any more than what you get from the drug store.
Just for the record.. even choosing a bad SPF is better than going without UV protection, maybe that goes without saying.
Mineral (otherwise known as physical) SPFs take forever to absorb, leave streaky/sticky finishes, and… if you have even a hint of facial hair or stubble.. leave behind an unattractive white cast that refuses to fade (no matter how hard you try to rub it in).
Most tinted SPFs are much of the same… heavy, hard to shade-match with skin, or far too full-coverage, leaving you looking like you applied your makeup in total darkness... unattractive to say the least.
But there is good news!
I’m happy to report the tide is finally turning … I’ve curated a tight assortment of formulations that actually WORK. They absorb into skin quickly, feel weightless, and (in the case of the tinted formulas) offer amazing shade varieties to complement your skin. You don’t need to look like a ghost or walk around with a face three shades lighter than your neck… (but if you do no judgment here).
Lets start with a little education:
There are two types of sunscreen filters used in SPF formulations, mineral and chemical.
Mineral sunscreens... they act as a physical shield on the surface of the skin, it uses natural active minerals like zinc oxide or titanium dioxide to reflect UV rays away.. kind of like a mirror.
Chemical filters, on the other hand, sink into the skin to absorb UV rays and convert them harmlessly into heat. Mineral (or physical) formulas offer a non-irritating defense, making them an essential for those with sensitive, post-procedure, or reactive skin….. chemical SPFs deliver an invisible and beautifully airy elegance that layers very well under makeup.
For years and years the trade offs have been huge … but I’m happy to say not so much anymore. Chemists are getting damn good at formulating mineral SPFs to create little white cast and feel light and breathable … almost like their chemical counterparts.
Many people (especially men) fundamentally misunderstand tinted SPF… it isn’t makeup it isn’t just SPF …. it a hybrid of both. Think of it as a way to elevate your color to make you appear sun-kissed without the sun damage or lack of protection.
The bulk of the market gets this product wrong…. the tinted SPFs on offer in the US have a list of problems:
Inclusion of cheap pigments that cause breakout-prone irritation.
Low SPF protection prioritized to accommodate a heavier mount of tint ingredients.
Abysmal shade ranges
Drying, chalky bases that settle aggressively into fine lines and texture.
But there are a few exceptions to this…
Avène Mineral Sunscreen Multi-Defense Fluid Tinted SPF 50:
This is a fabulous tinted SPF 50 from Avene… it melts into the skin and the color effortlessly blends into a naturally sun-kissed tone. It hydrating, protective, and designed for sensitive skin. A winner all around in my educated opinion.
Perfect for: Dry and/or Sensitive Skin Types
To Try: DermStore.com or Amazon.com
Colorscience- Sunforgettable Total Protection Face Shield Flex SPF 50:
One of my favorite tinted SPFs on the market… this one from Colorscience really performs like a light weight SPF that happens to have a little tint that is amazing for layering. It is hydrating and comes with the added benefits of an antioxidant rich formula. This is my current favorite tinted SPF because it comes in a multiutde of shades that can perfectly complement your skintone, making you look great.
Perfect for: Great for all skin types, even sensitive skin
To Try: ColorScience.com or Amazon.com
ISDIN Eryfotona Ageless Mineral Broad-Spectrum Tinted SPF 50:
A very natural finish. This is a tinted SPF that feels transparent and light while providing immense protection. It also comes in a non-tinted variety (here). The formula goes beyond just sun protection to also provide skincare ingredients including Peptide Q10 which provides collagen stimulating properties.
Best For: All Skin Types, including sensitive and acne prone skin
To Try: DermStore.com or Amazon.com
Elta MD UV Skin Recovery SPF 50:
An amazing SPF 50 that protects and calms the skin.. it has Ceramide Blend that Nourishes skin and strengthens the skin barrier… while also having Centella Asiatica that powerfully calms skin.
Perfect for: Great for all skin types, especially for sensitive or acne prone skin
To Try: DermStore.com or Amazon.com
Shiseido Urban Enviroment Mineral Clear SPF 50:
This is as light as they come for mineral SPFs, it almost feels like a serum. It hydrating and very protective… featuring hyaluronic acid, vitamin E, and Ginkgo leaf extract. All of these benefits add up to one of the best mineral SPFs on the market. I carry a bottle in every one of my work bags and reapply during the day.
Best For: All Skin Types, especially Sensitive and Acne ProneTo Try: Sephora.com or Amazon.com
DUNE Suncare The Mineral Melt:
If you want a little bit of sun, but still be protected DUNE’s mineral melt SPF 30 is fabulous. It is expertly formulated & clinically proven to brighten, firm, and hydrate the skin. It also has youth-promoting peptides to improve skin’s suppleness & elasticity. I consider this SPF to be a great SPF/skincare hybrid… a win win solution.
To Try: DuneSuncare.com (use code CIAN15 for 15% off)
What To AVOID AT ALL COSTS:
I’ve told you the science behind tinted & mineral SPFs… and what to buy...now its time to illustrate what to avoid.
AVOID Almost all “luxury” SPFs… luxury and SPF shouldn’t be in the same sentence. Luxury, in my educated opinion, needs to come with some value to justify the additional cost. In skincare, this comes in the form of more effective formulas, high quality ingredients, and a length of testing to prove the product works as illustrated.
In the SPF category you are just paying for packaging and a brand name.. not additional protection. Because SPFs are regulated like a drug in the US it is legally bound to be tested and meet a certain level of protect, this means that an SPF 50 from the drug store is held to the same standard as one from Augustinus Bader.
Here is what to avoid:
Augustinus Bader The Mineral Sunscreen SPF 50
Over priced… and under delivers. The formula isn’t elegant and leaves a noticable white cast… especially on darker tones. Avoid..
Dr. Barbara Sturm Sun Drops:
Where do I start with this one… Avoid like the plague…. over priced, no quality, small sizes… you are paying for the packaging and perceived brand quality … although Sturm doesn’t really have any quality in my opinion…
Sisley Paris Sunleÿa SPF 50+
$400 dollars for SPF… need I say more.
111 Skin SPF 50
The formula here is actually very very good, a chemical SPF 50 that feels as light as a cleansing milk. However…. the price point is too steep for me to look past. $135 for an SPF is insane. I would say spend your money on their serums and just buy drug store SPF 50…
There is a laundry list I could pull from to illustrate how many “luxury” SPFs there are… just don’t fall into the trap. It all marketing BS… the antithesis of what I stand for.
Purchasing an SPF shouldn’t be a process of compromises… it shouldn’t be between looking like a ghost or selecting an ultra light formula that has a lower protection factor. And it shouldn’t require spending hundreds of dollars on some “glow drops”.
High-performance sun protection comes down to somewhat complex chemistry, not luxury price tags with extensive packaging. Whether you select a tinted mineral hybrid to even out your skin tone or an ultra light untinted SPF that absorbs seamlessly… stick to formulas that are elegant, have active skin-soothing ingredients, and offer verified protection. Skip the $400 bullshit, grab a formula tailored to your skin type, and wear it every single day (don’t forget to reapply). This will serve you well…
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