Formentera, This Time Around

I’ve been lucky enough to keep finding my way back to sun-drenched Formentera over the last few years. Why? A friend’s parents have been holidaying here since the ‘80s, and somewhere along the way we inherited their little black book of spots.

The funny thing is it’s only a 30-minute ferry from Ibiza. One island is DJs, queues and mild sensory overload. The other is barefoot lunches, impossible shades of blue and scooters puttering down dusty roads.

Formentera is the often-forgotten sibling of the Balearics. Mallorca gets the Pinterest saves and destination weddings. Menorca gets the family villa holidays and repeat visitors. Formentera keeps a much lower profile.

If you ever get the chance to go, take it. Search “Formentera” on TikTok if you need convincing, then save this guide for when you’re actually there.

These are the places I’d send a friend, not a tourist.

Rent a car.

Yes, technically you can cycle around the island, but every time I see someone attempting it in 34-degree heat I wonder what series of decisions led them there.

This year we hired an electric car for the first time from Pro Auto. Electricity has officially arrived on Formentera. Get there early to return your hire car before the ferry. It turns into absolute chaos because everyone has the same idea, and it's never entirely clear who's actually in charge. At one point someone handed my boyfriend their keys simply because he was wearing a black T-shirt.

You’ll probably end up with a tiny Fiat Panda. Embrace it. Everyone drives tiny cars here and, for a few days at least, it becomes your entire mario kart personality.

One thing worth knowing: most businesses close between 3pm and 5pm for siesta.

Hotels are slowly catching on. Every year another beautiful property appears, and developers are starting to notice the island. Progress, I suppose, although I’m sure a lot of people miss what it was. Personally, I'd skip staying near the port or the coastline facing Ibiza. It's where most of the day-tripper traffic ends up.

That said, I’d still choose an Airbnb if you can. Having your own place somehow feels more like Formentera.

If you are after a hotel:

• Teranka

• Dunas de Formentera

• Estel Formentera

• Formentera White Estudios

• Casa Pacha Formentera

• Can Carlos

• El Tiburon

• Santa Clara

• Chezz Gerdi

• Bocasalina

• El Gioviale

• Es Molí de Sal

You don’t really “go out” in Formentera. You just keep moving from one beach bar to the next until it’s somehow midnight.

• Blue Bar

• Chiringuito Bocaboca

• Chiringuito KM11

• Amar

• Chiringuito Bartolo

• Chiringuito Gitana

• KARAI (formerly Kiosko 62)

KARAI deserves a mention. It used to be Kiosko 62 before losing its licence a few years ago, something that’s unfortunately happened to a number of long-standing local businesses as larger operators have moved onto the island.

I’d personally skip Beso Beach unless your dream afternoon involves Ibiza day-trippers waving napkins in the air like they’re trying to land a helicopter.

• Cala Saona

• Platja de Llevant

• Varadero Can Carlitos

• Platja de Ses Illetes

Camí de sa Pujada

Go early. Before midday if you can. Your future self will thank you.

I’m going to say something controversial. Formentera isn’t really a breakfast island.

Coffee? Excellent, strong and cheap.

Pastries? Lovely and carb orientated.

Full breakfast? Rarely worth planning your morning around.

That said:

• Blat Picat

• Cafe Matinal (especially if you’re the type to order a green juice)

• Or honestly, just wander through Sant Francesc and stop wherever looks busy.

The best shopping isn't really planned anyway. It's the little boutiques you accidentally wander into while looking for a coffee. I've got plenty saved in my head but not on a map. You'll find quilted bags, woven totes, cotton dresses, ceramics, bikinis, sarongs that I somehow pitch to my boyfriend every single use case. Now my kitchen is full of ceramics and only one broke across the Atlantic heading back to NYC.