Bali Back In Time

Depending on a person’s nature and vibe, they will visit Bali for very different reasons. That is because of the polarity of multifaceted Bali.

The island of the gods can be a place for prayer, meditation, and communion with nature.

The same island can be a playground of alcohol, beach clubs, western food, sunbathing, cigarettes, and sun.

I’m drawn to the Bali from long ago, the Bali of temples, restaurants serving local food in broken English, homestay hotels with communal kitchens, Hindu statues, and rooms that smell of incense.

This is about east Bali, a district known as Karangasam Regency, a place ruled over by Balinese Royalty, not very long ago.

It is an area rich in history, culture, breathtaking natural landmarks, incredible temples, and deep spirituality, much of which has remained unchanged over the years.

If ancient Bali and culture was my vibe, and I had two weeks to spend in Bali, this is where I’d stay.

It is hours away from the airport, and far from the beach clubs and bikinis, but it is like nowhere else on earth.

Pictured in the introduction of this essay is Lempuyang Temple and the “Gates of Heaven”.

You may have seen people on social media standing in the center of the gates.

It’s such a photographed location that you will be given a number when you arrive, so that photos can be taken on a first-come, first-serve basis.

The temple is located on the steep slopes of Mount Lempuyang. It is one of the oldest and most sacred temples in all of Bali and this temple predates many other Balinese temples.

The name Lempuyang is derived for the Balinese words for “light” and “divine being” symbolizing a place of spiritual illumination. It is considered one of the six holiest places of worship in Bali.

When going here, wear comfortable walking shoes, and prepare for a steep drive followed by a steep hike up many ancient stairs. It is recommended to arrive early and bring drinking water.

On the way to Amlapura, Karangasam Regency’s main city, is a village known as Candidasa (pronounced “Chan-dee-dah-sah”).

It is home to a laid-back fishing village community, boutique shops and local warungs featuring friendly locals, ocean breezes and gorgeous views.

While in Candidasa, you may want to visit the Blue Lagoon, a well-known snorkeling spot. It has a vibrant reef with shallow, clear water and abundant marine life.

Unlike the black sand beaches across much of Bali, Candidasa features white sand beaches.

Near Candidasa is the Lotus Lagoon filled with lily pads, pink and white lotus flowers and green palm trees that sway in the wind.

The next beautiful location is known as Taman Ujung Water Palace. The location is a former royal palace with massive ponds and stone bridges. Mount Agung can be viewed in the distance.

The Water Palace is gorgeous, peaceful, quiet and calm.

It was built by the former king of Karangasam in the early nineteen hundreds as a place to host guests and relax.

It is a massive garden complex with huge ponds, pavilions, and stairways leading to beautiful views, making it a historic landmark and a wonderful place for photos.

Not far from Taman Ujung is Tirta Gangga, which takes its name from the Ganges River, the holy river in India.

Tirta Gangga was built in 1946 by I Gusti Bagus Jelantik, the last king of Karangasam, and has become a cultural and spiritual landmark.

Located about seven kilometers north of Amlapura in Ababi Village, it was built as a royal retreat and a place of reflection and is filled with Balinese Hindu symbolism and water gardens full of steppingstones and koi fish, which you can feed.

Also on the grounds is a small museum with artifacts and information about the Karangasam Royal family.

Not far away is the Karangasam Royal Palace, known locally as Puri Agung, which was built in the late 1800s, and is located in the center of Amlapura.

It was used as a home and temple for the former royal family. Some of their descendants still live there and greet tourists today.

Puri Agung showcases European columns alongside Balinese courtyards, as it is a unique blend of Balinese, Chinese and Dutch architectural styles.

This is a compact palace which requires no more than thirty-five minutes to see the entire property.

For slow mornings, mountain views, rice terraces and a romantic, private vibe, Sideman (pronounced “Seed-a-men”) is wonderful.

Here you will find beauty, nature, calmness, and delicious local food in warungs (restaurants) and stores run by locals.

There are no supermarkets or beach clubs here, no huge collections of cafes or nightlife like Kuta or Ubud. Businesses do close a bit early, but that’s part of its appeal.

Sideman is a quiet agricultural valley with views of Mount Agung. Here, you will be surrounded by rice fields, rivers and small, mountain villages.

It’s a great location for a honeymoon or time away with a partner as many of the villas are designed around privacy, nature, fresh foods, and mountain views.

Sideman is a great base for river rafting, trekking and visiting waterfalls, too.

The village of Amed in Bali is how I imagine Bali of the 1960’s, or earlier. There, business signs are hand-painted. Locals are warm, friendly, relaxed, and laid-back.

Amed is a quiet, gorgeous, coastal fishing and agricultural village with uncrowded, volcanic, black sand beaches.

You won’t find western franchises here, just local foods and products.

The scuba diving and snorkeling here is amazing and you can enjoy fresh seafood for low prices while enjoying breathtaking views of the mountains and ocean.

Amed is an excellent getaway location, where you’ll want to turn off your phone and put your feet in the sand while enjoying a cool drink.

Just north of Amed is Tulamben, a place known for its marine biodiversity and authentic feel.

A must visit dive site in Tulamben is the iconic USAT Liberty shipwreck.

The Liberty was torpedoed during World War Two. It now rests on the ocean floor near the shoreline.

Having been submerged for decades, the Liberty is now encrusted in coral. Diving here, you’ll see tropical fish, turtles, and other marine animals.

Amed and Tulamben have several other shipwreck sites, as well. Local dive companies can assist in transportation, equipment, and safety in visiting these sites.

These two locations are also a wonderful place to enjoy the sun set over the beach as it paints the sky in vibrant colors.

I’ll close with a location that an entire article could be devoted to.

Besakih, also known as the Great Madam Temple and the Great Mother Temple, lies along the slope of the famous Mount Agung active volcano.

Tremendous in scope, it is spread over a three-kilometer area where it is comprised of eighty-six individual shrines which are built atop six terraced levels with steep, ancient stone staircases.

The temple embodies the Hindu concept of Tri Hita Karana, which represents harmony between God, humanity, and nature.

Besakih is considered the spiritual center for Balinese Hinduism, and the most important of all of the island’s directional temples.

Hindus from all over Bali and also all over Indonesia make the trip to Besakih to pray and worship.

While the roots of Besakih Temple are confirmed to date back to at least 1007 AD, the origins of worship here are believed to date back over 2,000 years.

During the 1963 eruption of Mount Agung, on which slopes the property lies, lava missed touching the three-kilometer temple grounds by just a couple meters while there was widespread damage across many other parts of the Regency.

The Balinese Hindus view this fact as a miracle, a sign of the strength of the gods, who displayed their powers but intentionally spared the ancient Mother Temple.

In summary, Karangasam Regency may be an area you’ve not considered visiting or learning more about, as much of what is recommended to travelers to Bali is the southern portion of Bali, places like Kuta, Seminyak, and Canggu. These places can be fun, but have a major touristy vibe, with prices to match, in many areas.

If you are more interested in ancient landscapes and beautiful scenery combined with friendly locals and delicious foods at reasonable prices, and you enjoy uncrowded tropics, this just might be the right place for you.

Celeste A. Vale, Bali

July 18, 2026