Reading · Caroline Carries On

I touch down in Geneva in a heatwave, as everywhere this summer. I’m heading to a village in the mountainous Swiss Pays-d’Enhaut region to spend the weekend with my parents, in their home here.

Our family relationship with Switzerland started when I was six months old, with the arrival of the first of many Swiss au pairs. My mother believes that the Swiss are polite, and that this would rub off on us kids. Of course, she was right! Are au pairs still a thing? Let me know. We have been coming here ever since, and it’s been part of the fabric of both my and my son’s childhood.

Left, Dinner at Au Montagnard with wild cornflowers. Center, Exterior of the restaurant. Right, Traditional Swiss short sleeve jacket worn ‘bringing down’ the cows.

The train ride is an important part of the winding-down process at the start of each trip. First, along Lake Geneva, past discreet billionaire hideaways (sit on the right!). Change trains (punctually) at Montreux, then up, up, and around the mountain on the scenic GoldenPass route to the village of Château-d’Oex. Sit anywhere; it’s all chocolate-box pretty. Some of the carriages have floor-to-ceiling windows (my preference); others are decorated à la Belle Époque.

Unlike its bougie neighbor Gstaad, CD’O is low-key and local. I drop by my favorite restaurant, Au Montagnard, on the way home for a quick catch-up with the owner, Leopoldine. We celebrated Gil’s 18th birthday here with fondue and sparklers in the snow; today, in the heatwave, it’s a smoked trout salad scattered with cornflower blue blossoms picked from the meadow. It’s Swiss National Day this weekend, and I’m coveting the traditional men’s shirts and short-sleeved velvet embroidered jackets. They are hard to find locally, and I’m hoping Leopoldine can help me source a really good one. I’m patient, and it has to be right. I’ll keep you posted.

If I have time, I’ll pop into the Museum of Old Pays-d'Enhaut in the village. It highlights local folk art, particularly decoupage, and an exhibition there several years ago inspired one of my all-time favorite collections for Banjanan.

Left, decoupage at the Museum Pays-d’Enhaut. Right, a look from the Banjanan collection it inspired.

Family friend Ellen Bernfeld, who used to work as a curator at the British Museum, has converted an old bakery in the neighboring village of Rossiniere into Galerie MaisonBis, showcasing lesser-known Swiss artists. It’s a beautiful space and the excuse I need to hop on a train and revisit the same tiny village the artist Balthus called home. You can visit his simple grave outside the serene Balthus Chapel, and view the outside of his home, the magnificent wood-carved 18th-century Grand Chalet. (It’s a private property — his wife, artist Setsuko Klossowska de Rola, still lives there).

Left, Curator Ellen Bernfeld and I at the Gallerie MaisonBis. Center, The exterior of Balthus’ Grand Chalet. Right, Yours truly in the village of Rossiniere.

Across the road from the Grand Chalet is Balthus’ atelier, which is a real treat. It’s untouched and exactly as he left it, with his last unfinished canvas still on the easel. It’s atmospheric and magical. Balthus was obsessed with cats and included many in his paintings. To add to the magic of the studio, Balthus’ real-life cat walked straight past me out of the door of his studio and across the road into his house!