good eats: kyoto

Tokyo is regarded as the culinary heart of Japan, but honestly, some of our most unforgettable meals were in Kyoto. Below are the places we enjoyed, as well as a list of spots I had bookmarked and hope to visit again if we return.

Listen, this is a tourist spot, without a doubt. If you ask a local, they aren’t going to tell you it’s where they eat. In the same way, I, as a Londoner, am not eating at Borough Market every week. But you know what, it’s a great place to wander and eat the foods you want to try, but perhaps don’t want to commit to at a restaurant. You will find stalls selling skewers, wagyu sushi, Tamagoyaki, Mochi, Tako-tamago and more. I don’t have a particular stall or place to recommend, but I would say go with discernment, see what calls to you, what looks fresh, treat it like a snack spot vs a place for dinner, definitely save room for dinner somewhere else.

It is worth going alone to buy this seasoning at a speciality store condiment store (also known as my personal heaven) if you see this, buy it and thank me later!

Breakfast is hard to find in Japan, unless you are staying at a hotel which provides it; most things don’t open before 10 am (including coffee shops), and people, including locals, tend to get their breakfast from Konbini’s like 7-Eleven.

Experiencing a traditional Japanese breakfast was one of the highlights of our entire trip. They are often served at Ryokans, which are traditional hotels/inns, and honestly, this is the best way to experience them. But if you don’t have time on your first trip to Japan to visit a Ryokan, but want to experience a traditional Japanese breakfast, then I recommend booking a breakfast at the Six Senses. This was my first ever experience of a Japanese breakfast and easily the most elevated of all the ones I ate across our trip. If you love picky bits, love breakfast and love Japanese food, then you will be in your own personal heaven here. These are the gut-loving breakfasts that the wellness girlies should be shouting about; they are so satisfying and delicious, whilst also being genuinely balanced and healthy. You get a multitude of things to try; sticky jasmine rice, local caught fish (we were served mackerel), which was perfectly grilled, charred and full of depth. As well as Miso soup, homemade pickles, and fresh tofu, it just never ends, and you don’t want it to!

The buffet at the Six Senses was also incredibly extensive, with several types of bread, salads, fruit, smoothies, roasted vegetables, and house-made smoked fish. The quality of the produce really shone, and the atmosphere of the dining room was beautiful. We were staying at the hotel (adpr stay), so breakfast was included, but dining at the restaurants of Six Senses Kyoto is open to non-guests, as is their dinner.

We stumbled on this ramen restaurant after hours of walking, and at that exhausted point where you can barely make decisions. I had pulled up Google Maps and searched for the word ramen, and this had very good reviews. The comments spoke over huge lines worth the wait, but in we walked, no queue and no stress. The ramen here reminded me of the type I’ve eaten at home at Bone Daddies (one of my favourite ramen places in London) I don’t know if that is good or bad, but if you’re after a fun atmosphere where the chefs shout in unison when an order is ready or when someone get’s up to leave, you will love it here. The creamy, flavourful bowls served here can be made with multiple broth styles (pork, chicken, vegan, and even gluten-free!) We ordered the chicken broth with char sui topping, and it was cosy and satisfying. There was also a fresh citrus yuzu flavour that was unique and interesting. The noodles were chewy and bouncy, and I loved the spicy touch, which we found is harder to come by generally with ramen. The soup was the perfect remedy for the end of a freezing day walking in Kyoto, it felt like it soothed our bones and hit the spot of being simple and satisfying.