A few weeks ago in NYC, I had dinner with a group of friends at Elio’s, the uptown Italian stalwart. Among the crew was Adam Rapoport, formerly of GQ and Bon Appétit. Adam is now wearing a variety of hats: working with Becca, where he advises restaurants on content and strategy; working as a writer and editorial advisor for WM Brown; writing for Airmail; and since 2020, he’s been a consultant for Ruthie Rogers of The River Cafe in London, one of my favorite restaurants in the solar system.
Over an animated discussion about our love of broccoli rabe (sadly, Elio’s was sold out that evening), Adam shared a trick he picked up for cooking broccoli rabe from Joseph Trivelli, chef at The River Cafe. There is one particular wrinkle that stuck with me, and has now informed the way I cook all my greens at home:
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