There is nothing like traveling in Italy in the off-season, when the throngs of tourists have left the streets. Last year, we went to Lake Como for Thanksgiving, Florence for Christmas, and visited some interesting places like Irpinia and the Baia di Ieranto in January. In February, we went skiing in Courmayeur in Vallée d’Aosta and took last-minute trips to Venice and Sicily.
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We have some last-minute holiday planning to do, and I’m wondering: where should I visit (within Italy) for Christmas this year? The catch is that I am limited to train travel since I’m in my third trimester, and want to stay “close to home”. Here are three itineraries I have on my mind.
Perugia, Umbria
A few years ago, we spent a magical autumn weekend in the south of Umbria and made Spoleto our home base. We went to an amazing biodynamic winery (powered by moon cycles) and tasted some delicious wine, hiked parts of the Way of Saint Francis, and enjoyed the quaint villages and beautiful scenery. It was restorative and relaxing.
We spent last weekend in nearby Todi, Umbria, during the last of the olio nuovo and stayed at Il Ghiottone Umbro based on ’ recommendations here. We went olive oil tasting at Frantoio Gaudenzi and visited the Basilica of Saint Francis of Assisi on a rainy day. I stuffed myself with pumpkin and chestnut cappelloti and savored tagliatelle with truffle. I stopped in Orvieto and admired the new Palazzo Petrvs hotel from the windows as I made my way to the duomo. Two near-perfect, relaxing, Umbrian escapes have me yearning for more.
I would love to come back to Umbria and make Perugia a home base, as it’s accessible by train. I could also take the train to nearby Arezzo for the day. Not to mention, I’ve heard that the Christmas markets in Perugia are beautiful. How magical would it be to stay in this quaint Italian town and have Christmas dinner in a restaurant, cuddled up with pasta and truffles? There is something about Umbria that screams to slow down and cozy up.
Liguria - La Spezia, Riomaggiore, and the Cinque Terre National Park
I have never been to Liguria, but it has the laid-back, natural vibes I love, not to mention the wonderful seafood. On my dream trip, we will take the train to La Spezia to enjoy the Christmas Markets that run from December 1, 2025 to Jan 5, 2026. After visiting the market and drinking hot chocolate, I would stock up on some fancy Genovese pesto and focaccia from specialty food stores. I would also be obliged to try Farinata & Panissa - two different chickpea breads similar to socca in the South of France. I love anything chickpea - including bread!
Once I have stocked up on food for a few days, I'll take the bus to the eco-lodge on the coast I’ve been eyeing for years. There are about seven flights or 100+ rocky steps built into a mountainside in order to access it, so light packing is all that’s required (my husband can carry the fancy provisions). The property is located not only among a vineyard, but also along the footpaths network of the National Park of the Cinque Terre, so you can wake up and go hiking with ease. When you’re done, you can relax in the tub outside.
I imagine cooking something delicious around the fire and sitting out for apertivo at sunset. If we get too cooped up, the towns of Riomaggiore, Monterosso, and Manarola have Christmas Markets as well.
The Bernina Express Train
A few years ago, my brother told me about the Bernina Express, a magical snowy train ride through Switzerland. When I started researching it, I found out that it starts in Tirano, Italy, accessible via public transit from Milan. The full ride is 4.5 hours and goes to Chur, Switzerland. I would love to take a ride on this train and observe the magic of the mountains and snow.
I did some research on Reddit and found that this train can be crowded and touristy. One of my friends visited last weekend and confirmed the assertions made by the fine people of Reddit and suggested splurging for a first-class ticket (“we were in second class and felt like a hot sardine”). She also suggested a few “workarounds”. Instead of taking the Bernina, you can take regional trains for an “on your own” experience, which use the same tracks, but were much cheaper, and totally empty. The windows were smaller, but you could open them, which made for better pictures. Here are some suggested routes:
Tirano → St. Moritz train
St. Moritz → Chiavenna bus
Chiavenna → Colico → Milan train
Tirano → Potresina, Switzerland
In terms of what to do and see in these towns, apparently, Potresina, Switzerland, is a famous spa town with thermal springs. I could pack my bathing suit and relax in thermal pools in the snow. Tirano is also a wine region, so I would make a point to schedule a tasting or two for my husband.
Another option for experiencing the Bernina Express could be to take the train to Milan and sign up for this Airbnb excursion from the train station. The host will drive you from Milan to Tirano, you take the Bernina to St. Moritz, and then the host will pick you up and drive you back to Milan. Seems like a great deal for someone who doesn’t want to rent a car.
Between these three destinations, which one would you pick for Christmas?
Happy Thanksgiving to my US readers! Grateful for your eyeballs on this newsletter! 🦃
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