GEN-C: A Social Media Syllabus for Couture

It’s not like this is the first fashion week of all time to unfold while the world crumbles in the background— a not-so-distant dystopia wafting into conversation, usually met with clumsy, superficial commiseration, if not general apathy and straight up annoyance at the inconvenience of having to acknowledge reality at all. Despite what often feels like a collective effort to look away, there was no avoiding the particularly pungent stench of dissociation and moral decay that floated around Paris this week like ribbons of stink— mostly trailing Jeff and Lauren Sánchez Bezos.

In that atmosphere, the nature, the purpose, the necessity, even the permission for couture came up quite often in my conversations. Granted, I tend to talk (like realllyyy talk) to a very specific subset of fashion people, but the consensus was clear: yes, we need art more than ever, but fashion does not get to opt out of the world in which it operates and ignore the harm it does by doing so. For all the ways it borrows from fine art and popular culture— for all the ways it reflects, rejects, and projects our reality— fashion is, and must remain, an intersectional discipline.

Internet-y culture critics like Brenda Hashtag and Louis Pisano (who masterfully referenced Danya Issawi’s essay, “What’s up with some of you bubble bitches?”) put it perfectly: the bubble is bursting, and pretending otherwise isn’t gaggy or a carry. It’s embarrassing.

I dumped my piece on Threads and Notes.

Normally, this is where I’d roll up my sleeves and deliver a meaty, semi-focused but mostly rambling autopsy of couture. But I’m going to be so fucking for real with you right now: I’m T I R E D — and I’m talmbout in more ways than one. I just could not get into litigating basic ethics over €38 burgers with tablemates who would prefer not to think — how do I say this politely — critically — about how fashion exists in the modern world.

And even though the community we’ve built on Brain Matter (10k of you as of today!!!!) is anything but a void to scream into — I’m deeply grateful for you rigorous thinkers who make this place a comfy home for both shit-talking/righteous drags and intellectual discourse — a meaty analysis just isn’t in the cards for me this week.

Instead, I made a social media syllabus: a broad survey for normal, not chronically online folks to tap into the most essential, interesting, or overlooked bits of the week. Just because I am professionally glued to my phone doesn’t mean I should drag you down with me.

Consider it my gift to the curious but overwhelmed, “I can’t read 2,000 words right now but I do want to clock some tea” crowd. Because Lord knows I can’t write those 2,000 words either.

So, here it is, couture on-screen for the scrolling generation accompanied by what I think are coherent if not slightly disjointed ideas. (Disclaimer: could just be brain rot).

Nature! Nature everywhere! Including hanging from the ceilings (and models’ ears!) at Jonathan Anderson’s Dior Couture debut. I was OBSESSED with the fact that I very actively mistook the ornate orchid earrings for live foliage. Never post details about a show on IG before going to the re-see because NOPE. Loud and wrong! Fully and perfectly painted faux florals.

Jonathan did his big one.

So far, couture is where he thrives in this house, and that is pleasing to me and my homegirls.

The ideas were vast and the execution exquisite. It was also way too long — let’s edit on the next one, Baby Gorgeous. I understand the temptation; there was so much in this collection. For example, I was thrilled to discover afterward that Kenyan-born artist Magdalene Odundo served as a key source of inspiration for many of the silhouettes and collaborated on several of the bags.

Seeing John Galliano — JDubbs’ predecessor twice removed — at the show was adorable, especially given how important it was for Jonathan to share this moment with him. It was the first Dior show Galliano had ever attended… because duh, of course. Jonathan’s parents even cozied up to (and fangirled) the OG, and that whole scene almost masked the foulness of some other backstage schmoozing. (Do you kiss your mother with those lips, Jonathan?!)

“Teardrop” by Massive Attack? such a good runway song.

Matthieu Blazy opened his debut couture collection for the house with a woman of a certain age. He often cast “older” women at Bottega, but I choose to see this as a chic rebuttal to the wave of articles claiming he’s abandoning the Chanel customer and alienating VICs with his fresh vision for the maison.

…As if every house doesn’t show couture on 19-year-old bodies while selling to women who are considerably older (or at least have fully formed cerebral cortexes?!)…

Talk about alienating!!

For reasons I do not feel compelled to explain, Tilda Swinton and Nicole Kidman airdropping contacts post-show is important to me. As is Tilda Swinton and Edward Enninful holding hands for a not-insignificant portion of the presentation. I’m going to tell my kids they were “holding space.”

Weightless jeans. That’s all.

Wait… no… A weightless Classic Flap bag?! THAT IS, IN FACT, ALL.

In RTW we saw the signature accessory sculpted in metal; at Métiers d’Art, distorted into kooky shapes; and now rendered in the lightest possible chiffon. We simply must stan an innovative approach to archive study.

Alas, Bhavitha Mandava, breakout star and Métiers d’Art opener who has deployed social media with remarkable savvy since her discovery, is Blazy’s couture bride. This follows a debut RTW show closed by Awar Odhiang. Brown girls stay winning, and I love to see it.

Alessandro Michele loves theatre — and his sets are often the most imaginative part of his shows. I haven’t requested a Valentino ticket in three years after being assaulted and humiliated by a security guard at a ready-to-wear show, but from what I can see through my screen, the consistency and commitment to camp remain inspiring. It’s never been about hating from outside the club for me.

I adored the intimate, peep-show quality of this presentation, and I love Alessandro’s kinship with Elton John even more. These are the titans of culture we should be running to embrace at the end of a show.

Not the oligarchy.

The ISABELLA BLOWFISH!! Now, see, this delights me. What a concept. Inquire within.

Speaking of divine women, I’m deeply into creative director Daniel Roseberry’s sister becoming an accidental fashion influencer thanks to the unprecedented (and extremely rare) access to the house her brother has given her. This is the good kind of nepotism and has furnished the best kind of BTS. I want more. Imagine casually receiving couture packages from your brother for your birthday, or, like, simply because you have nothing to wear to a wedding (scroll her feed for that one!).

Actually, my brother bought me platform Skechers for Christmas in 1997, so honestly… I can relate.

Okay, now speaking of relatable— or not depending on your value system—Law Roach said, “you don’t own me!” and set himself up for a few very good comebacks in the process. Of course, he was referring to backlash surrounding working for Lauren Sanchez. Look, Law has never pretended that getting to the bag is not his primary consideration. Sure, as folks who love him, we can be disappointed with this alignment (which I can imagine will continue onto the Met Gala that she bought) and find it morally wrong— I, for one, even told him so— but no one can be surprised. Just last week at the premiere of “The Beauty” when asked what he would take a magical shot for— out of anything in the world— he chose to be a billionaire!

This is not the bait and switch y’all are making it out to be, even if it’s a tough pill to swallow.

Okay, well, that’s me… Now I NEED to know what’s been on your brain post-couture? Hit the chat pls. K, thx, bye! <3