Welcome to The Lowdown, a regular Paid Subscriber exclusive featuring what (and where) I’ve recently been eating and drinking.
On today’s The Lowdown…
Checking Out Frenzie on Opening Night.
Katie Parla at Popina.
Ranking Salt & Straw Ice Cream’s Summer Pies Series.
Hang On to What’s Left of Summer with the Stone Fruit Spritz at F&F Restaurant & Bar.
Tavern Next Door’s New-Look White Russian Comes On Like an Old-Fashioned, But Tastes Like a Vanilla Milkshake.
Back On My BLT Business
An Alfresco Steak & Shrimp Night
And more!
129 Atlantic Avenue Brooklyn, New York 11201
When the restaurant Confidant packed up and moved from Industry City to Atlantic Avenue in Brooklyn Heights into the longtime former home of Colonie, chef-owners Brendan Kelley and Daniel Grossman also took over the the venue next door where the aperitivo and wine bar PIP’s once occupied.
Despite living a block away I rarely frequented Colonie and despite the raves from friends who have dined there, I still haven’t been to Confidant, likely out of a misplaced perception of it being a bit on the “fancy” side in experience and price, but I should remedy that so I can see for myself.
When the original news of what would become of the PIP’s space described it as a bakery/cafe by day and a pizzeria by night I envisioned a Brooklyn spin on St. Louis’ Union Loafers—the kind of place I dream about having within walking distance. But as I witnessed the build-out of what would be called Frenzie every day while passing by it became clear that they would be dialing down the daytime aspect and instead go all-in on a pizza and wine bar concept.
When I saw Grossman out front last week waiting for a delivery, I stopped to introduce myself and share my enthusiasm for the upcoming opening. I did share my disappointment about the cafe/bakery angle left on the cutting-room floor but he was kind enough to share the realities of the costs, labors, and daily sales required to make the daytime concept work. He instead pivoted to the current vision for Frenzie, whose opening hours will stretch into the later hours to cater to the post-shift industry crowd. He walked me through some highlight of the menu and promised plenty of spontaneous dishes popping up on the late-night menu.
Late yesterday afternoon, after watching my beloved Seattle Mariners eek out a small 1-0 victory over the Yankees in what has been an incredibly disappointing season, especially as last year they were just eight outs away from making their first-ever World Series appearance, I walked up the block to have an early dinner at Frenzie.
The long, narrow room was cast in the glow of the late-summer sun and the place was buzzing with locals eager to finally step inside. I was able to secure the last open seat at the bar and settled in. I had brought as signed copy of Amaro as a housewarming gift and passed it on to the bartender, Charlie.
I started with a Negroni Alla Rosa, made with a blend of Fords Gin, Campari ,and Sarti Rosa Aperitivo from Bologna which lent a fruity, sweet-tart pop. Charlie told me the specific vermouth used but I neglected to jot it down as this was my inaugural dining experience there and I wanted to take everything in a bit more organically. Among the other house cocktails there’s naturally a Martini (Gin or Vodka, Blanco Vermouth, Manzanilla Sherry, Chartreuse Végétal) Manhattan (Bourbon, Vermouth, Bénédictine), and an Averna and Coffee Shakerato.
The menu is divided between Plates and Pies (Classic and Speciality). I went in thinking I’d order the Caesar salad-inspired Smashed Cucumbers with anchovies, garlic, Pecorino, and sourdough croutons, and I briefly considered the Frito Misto (squid, Boquerones, summer squash, Mama Lil’s Pickled Peppers, and Ranch), but as stone fruit season is upon us I opted for the Stracciatella set, served with two hunks of olive oil-slicked slightly charred focaccia and a plate of soft and creamy strands of strands pulled cheese dotted with slices of sweet plums and tangy, crunchy currants.
The daily specials chalkboard offered a tempting Calzone stuffed with three cheeses and Jimmy Nardello peppers, but I knew I’d be getting a pizza. I ordered the Sausage and Peppers from the Specialty Pies, which also featured Spicy Vodka, Sungold Tomato, and Japanese Eggplant.
I loved that the Sausage & Pepper crust was dotted with crunchy sesame seeds and had shreds of white cheddar rather than the usual mozz. The peppers were a mix of housemade pickled peppers and the aforementioned Mama Lil’s (shout-out Seattle!). The pizza was perfectly charred and on the thinner, crispy side of the pizza spectrum. I wouldn’t have minded more dots of the seasoned sausage in the mix but my only disappointment was that, despite mentioning my shared aversion (not an allergy) to onions (see: “Why I Hate Onions: A Manifesto”) when the bartender brought up allergies, I kept uncovering rings of slithery sneaky shallots which weren’t listed among the featured ingredients. Next time I’ll be sure to mention that when ordering—I plan to give the Classic Pie (sauce, mozz, Parm, basil) a spin with a pepperoni add-on. I’m curious, too, whether they’d offer the sesame-seed crust move as well.
Among Dolci on the chalkboard were an Olive Oil Cake, Soft Serve, and the Tiramisu, which I discovered was limited to just 16 servings a night. Charlie agreed that I need to try that. While I normally don’t go for boozy desserts, the creamy confection was gently spiked with Crème de cacao and Cognac (I think). The little dots of chocolate-covered crispy rice were a nice touch as was the the constellation of salt flakes scattered across the surface.
I boxed up the four remaining pizza slices I didn’t take down and Enzo gave the leftovers a proper inspection when I got back home.
327 Van Brunt Street, Brooklyn, New York 11231
In my recent PUNCH story, “The White Russian Got A Modern Makeover,” I wrote about Conor Johns’ inspired disco-era drinks program at Red Hook’s Tavern Next Door where his take on a White Russian transforms an Old-Fashioned spin into something that tastes like a malted milkshake. The soda fountain twist is delivered by way of a housemade vanilla malted whipped cream that channels the essence of a malted vanilla milkshake while dissipating over the surface of the drink with the finality of a passing summer cloud.
465 Court Street, Brooklyn, New York
I first met Aaron Trentadue when he was behind the bar at Gramercy Tavern. He’s now the Bar Director for the Frankies campus in Carroll Gardens and after running into him last month at their popular F&F Pizza Series with Blackbird, I was long overdue to catch up with him at F&F Restaurant & Bar so Frankies Marketing Director (and former publishing world colleague) recently invited me to meet up for aperitivo.
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