The Broccoli Special

Broccoli is surely one of my favourites (do I say that every week?) — quick to prepare, highly nutritious and inexpensive. Delicious in any and all of its guises — simply boiled and rolled in butter, finely sliced raw in salads, roasted or charred. Peak season for UK broccoli runs from now until October, the first in the brigade of brassicas that will march us into next season. Here are some excellent ways to make the most of it.

Based on the simple Tuscan dumplings with a name that translates as “naked” for their resemblance to the filling of a ravioli without its pasta shell. Often made with spinach, broccoli makes a wonderful alternative — adding a little sweetness and even more lightness to their pillowy texture. Tossed in brown butter and pine nuts — joy.

1. Bring a large pan of salted water to a rolling boil. Add the broccoli, cook until completely tender (around 6 mins) and drain. Blitz until finely chopped and smooth-ish in a food processor

2. In a large bowl mix together the broccoli, egg, ricotta, Parmesan, a little lemon zest, salt & pepper. Stir in the 3 tbsp flour — if the mixture doesn’t hold its shape well add another tbsp flour

3. Melt the butter in a large pan, then add the pine nuts and rosemary. Stir from time to time until gently golden, then turn off the heat (don’t take it too far as they will continue cooking a little after removing from the heat)

4. Place 3 tbsp flour in a small mixing bowl. Roll some of the broccoli mixture into a walnut-sized ball, toss into the flour to coat and place on a lightly floured tray. Repeat with the remaining mixture - it should make around 15 balls

5. Meanwhile bring a large pan of salted water to a rolling boil. Add the gnudi to the water. When they float to the surface lift from the water with a slotted spoon or spider and add carefully to the pan with the pine nuts

6. Gently toss in the butter mixture and add salt, lemon juice and Parmesan to taste

Serious comfort food. Serve with a big salad or as part of a roast dinner.