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The stories and personalities behind Copenhagen's food scene
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Read 5 days ago and current, but nothing has been published for 2 years.
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Giving It Away, Part 3
Dots, corn germ, and what Robuchon has to do with any of this
Giving it Away, Part 2
What medieval guilds, private culinary schools, and a very young Tony Bourdain have to do with today's stagiaire system
Giving it Away
Part One in an interminable dissertation on the stagiaire system and how it can change
27: La nouvelle cuisine
Meditations on Brasserie Prins and the eternal return of French cooking
26: The Chef Who Turned his Restaurant into a Bomb Shelter
The special psychology of war, and discovering you can act
25: The Sofa Soldier of Kharkiv
A chef's diary from a country under siege. With recipes.
24: Synesthesia
Global politics, a carrot dish, and little-known conditions involving the senses.
23: On Activism
Protests past and present
22: On Accusations, Boycotts, and Doing Journalism in the Times of Cholera
If the problems are structural, what should the response to the individual be?
21: Variations of Limbo
Toxic workplaces, thwarted visas, and other unresolved things
20: The Golden Age of Gluten
Louise Bannon and her vision of what bread can be
19: Here We Go Again, Christmas Edition
A moment, between press conferences, to ponder what's next for julefrokost and beyond
18: On Grace and Onion Tarts
Some post-Thanksgiving musings, and how Mathias Silberbauer came to make the most naked of pissaladières
17: Saffron Dreams
How a math teacher and a startup dude came to grow the world's most expensive spice--and supply some of Copenhagen's best restaurants
16: A Post-Pandemic Interview with Jonathan Tam
On unexpected opportunities, parental secrets, and why those rumors about a Cantonese restaurant aren't exactly accurate
15: The New Nordic Boys Club
A chronicle of the things (and people) left out of a definitive culinary moment
14: The Vegetable that Would Not Be Denied
Or: why Beau Clugston hates cauliflower
13: A Post-Pandemic Interview with Klaus Thomsen and More Thoughts on More Awards
The co-founder of Coffee Collective talks about fear, relearning Adobe, and why it's worth sacrificing profits, and I hold forth yet again on 50 Best