La Dolce Vita, x2

A strange thing happened this December. My husband and I had a full week with no plans, no work, no family commitments. While the thought of staying home and doing nothing sounded dreamy to me, it was my husband’s worst nightmare. I would’ve happily stayed in our Montclair home or even gone out to the freezing Hamptons just to chill inside. But Steven was ready to do something last‑minute and fun, and all he had to do was whisper two words in my ear.

The Aman.

I said, “Let’s go.”

The destination was easy to figure out. Our oldest son and his wife were going to be in their favorite city, Rome, and we thought maybe we could meet up for lunch or dinner. Not wanting to hijack their vacation, we chose to stay at the Aman in Venice then head to Rome.

I had only been to Venice once before, when the kids were little. Besides getting stuck in a Murano glass factory until we bought something, my strongest memories were the intense heat, the crowds, and ducking into a Burger King for our second son, who just didn’t want pasta. That was a long time ago.

I don’t usually travel with reservations or a rigid list of things to do. I prefer to wing it. But this time, I took recommendations from friends who really do their homework and are true travel experts. Here’s what I loved and why.

Venice

What an incredible time to be in Venice. It turns out December is totally off‑season, and it was pure magic. Quiet, easy, and it often felt like we were the only ones in the city. I loved wandering the narrow walkways between buildings, popping into churches, and discovering cafés for lunch or afternoon tea.

There’s so much great art in Venice. Visiting the Peggy Guggenheim Collection was a highlight; not just because her home is beautiful and her taste extraordinary, but because it sent me down a rabbit hole learning about her life. Her style, experiences, and friendships were epic. She endured real tragedy too, including the suicide of her artist daughter and the loss of her beloved father. She was truly a badass woman.

We stopped into the The Pinault Collection- Exposition Palazzo Grassi, which was equally cool. I got into trouble for walking through a very short doorway. It looked perfect to me, but apparently you’re not supposed to do that, as it’s part of an exhibit.

The canals are dreamy, the gondolas feel calm and accessible, and water taxis become part of daily life. Venice felt incredibly safe, charming, and full of moments that surprise you. Sitting and chatting with locals at nearby tables was fascinating, and the British guests I met at breakfast at The Aman were equally lovely. The weather was crisp; perfect for walking; and everyone everywhere was so stylish.

I was especially touched visiting the Jewish Ghetto. Unfortunately, the Jewish Museum was closed. Someone at a nearby Jewish bookstore joked that if I could give them $5 million, they’d happily reopen it…so if anyone to donate, let me know.

And then there was The Aman Venice. It did not disappoint. Located in a historic palazzo, with the owners reportedly living in a penthouse upstairs (we didn’t see them, but it would’ve been cool), the hotel was extraordinary. The staff- from the waiters to everyone you encountered- were incredibly warm and welcoming. Breakfast was included and delicious, fresh, and healthy. We didn’t eat lunch or dinner there, but everyone told us it’s one of the best restaurants in Venice.

One standout restaurant recommended by our concierge was wonderfully local and homey. And yes, I ate a lot of pasta, and every bite was worth it. The restaurant is so beloved that the walls are covered in celebrity photos, from George Clooney to Jennifer Aniston to Sylvester Stallone. Apparently, Joel Silver, the Hollywood producer, loved it so much he once flew the entire kitchen to his Beverly Hills home for two weeks to host nightly dinner parties for his famous friends. What a concept.

Rome

Then it was on to Rome. Warmer, much more crowded, but still magical. A quick shout out to the train from Venice to Rome- comfortable, spacious, and the first- class service was excellent.

In Rome, we stayed at a centrally located hotel conveniently close to Zara, which turned out to be essential. Somewhere along the way, I decided I’d be much more comfortable in a larger pair of jeans than the ones I packed. Note to self: when traveling to Italy or France, bring a bigger pair of jeans. The good news? I loved the thin jeans I bought so much that I purchased three pairs. Sadly, they’re no longer in stock, or I would’ve bought more.

We arrived in the afternoon, put on our sneakers, and started walking. Near the hotel was a street lined with charming shops and high-end stores like Gucci, Chanel, and Prada. So fun. We randomly ran into my daughter‑in‑law shopping while my son was back at the hotel watching a soccer match. We kept walking, eventually meeting up with him to see the sights.

Afterward, it was back to the hotel to relax before heading out for a local dinner.

Because I’m not someone who usually makes reservations, and it was Christmas week, which is especially crowded in Rome, we had to be flexible. Many people were there for Christmas celebrations, especially this year with the new pope. I wish I had seen him. He’s from Chicago, and I feel like we would’ve been friends.

I reached out to a few chef and foodie friends for restaurant recommendations. One list came from Stefano Secchi, (acclaimed Italian-American chef and partner behind New York City’s Michelin-starred restaurant Rezdôra) another from my son and daughter‑in‑law.

For me, Rome is about the food, the sights, and the shopping. The weather was warmer but rainy, and Rome isn’t quite as fun in the rain. Still, we had some fantastic meals. Even a simple pizza and arugula dinner was memorable.

And the only thing I bought? At the airport + duty‑free, I picked up a Prada backpack- perfect for traveling.

Stefano Secchi Rome Recommendations:

Classic Restaurants

• Ristorante Il Giardino: The old-school Roman spot, especially for Carciofi Giudea.

• Roscioli: For all the classic pastas.

• Bonci: Classic pizza al taglio or Roman-style pizzas, contemporary version.

• Santo Palato: Highly rated, creative takes on Roman classics.

Late Night Desserts

• Il Maritozzaro: Known for the best Maritozzo in Rome, busiest at 11 PM!

• Pasticceria Lambiase: Sorchetta “Doppio Schizzo”, Neapolitan desserts, amazing sfogliatelle.

• Il Cornettone “The Big Cornetto”: Incredible filled cornetti, can’t miss.

Bonus recommendations from my waiter in Rome for Puglia (a different trip):

• Ostuni

• Otranto

• Pugliano A Mare

• Santa Maria Di Leuca

So, if you choose to go and need some packing inspo, here’s my no-fail packing list.

Clothing

• Underwear

• Bras

• Socks

• Bathing suit

• Pajamas

• Leggings

• Black T-shirts

• White T-shirts

• Long-sleeve tops

• Sweatshirts

• Sweaters

• Cardigans

• Long skirt

• Jeans

• Black silk pants

• Shorts

• Running shorts

Shoes

• Sneakers

• Hermès sandals

• Loafers

Accessories

• Jewelry

Tech & Electronics

• iPad

• Kindle

• Chargers

• Converters

Remedies & Supplements

• French medicine

• Alka-Seltzer

• Tylenol

• Advil

• Magnesium

• GABA

• Ginger

• Sleep vitamins

• Prescription medication (Rx)

• Protein powder

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