Serena Gusmeri says that she’s not fond of international grapes in Italy. The winemaker for Vecchie Terre di Montefili, in the Chanti Classico region above the medieval town of Panzano — halfway between Florence and Siena — means, specifically, that she doesn’t approve of the addition of cabernet sauvignon, merlot or syrah to the sangiovese-based wines of Chianti, nor for the trendy employment of small French barriques*.
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