Costume, Fiber Arts, and Living History
Finished my 2025 Christmas presents for real, this time, back in February (though apparently I never actually published this post), with a pair of linen sleeve protectors . While the documentation I gathered back in the day suggested that such sleeves were primarily used by clerks and other people engaged in large amounts of writing, there was also scattered references to grocers' assistants,…
Something that's aged well over 250 years: French brocade gown, c.1775, in the MET . The bright fabric initially made this gown catch my eye. According to the Met's write-up, the attached bodice front with button closure (rather than a separate stomacher piece pinned to the overgown) is what makes this garment unique. While I still find panniers a bit ridiculous, they do show off the material very…
Managed to finish one project in April/May: a set of infant dresses for the newest Fort volunteers. As usual, I used Liz Clark's pattern. Size 2 dress with high neckline, smooth fit bodice and slim short sleeves. One of my favorite parts of this pattern is the ease of customization. I made 2 complete dresses, with a second (one size larger) bodice for each, and was able to use different style…
Purple silk dress, c.1840, from The Met. Looking for 1850s dress inspiration, I stumbled upon this fun c.1840 silk dress with a surplice/cross-over style bodice. At first glance I took it for an early 1860s dress with relatively large coat sleeves, but from the side view, it's more clearly one of those fun shapes that appears post-1836-sleeve-collapse where the sleeve is gathered/shirred down…
Corset Bodice, c.1800-1825, Snowshill Collection accessed through UK National Trust . I have So Many Questions about this garment. It came up while I was looking for inspiration images for some early 19th century short stays, but thus far it's eluding classification. At first glance, I took this for a set of short stays with unusually long tabs. On further reflection, I started wondering if it was…
I love these: Embroidered Wool Slippers, c.1855-1865, from Historic New England . The description says that these are wool with embroidery and silk lining. I really love the contrast between the white ground exterior and the bright scarlet trim/bow/lining. Zooming in close (thank you for the high resolution photos!), the embroidery appears to mostly be in chain-stitch, with applique (the red…
With the caveat that lots of projects can require more or less fabric, here's the "rule of thumb" measures that I use when I find an interesting fabric for future use. Obviously, if you are looking for fabric for a specific project, the yardage can be more precisely calculated by laying out the pattern pieces. Given my eras of interest, these measures are mostly based around the middle of the 19th…
This fabric has been in my stash for a while, waiting to replace my blue mid-19th-century wrapper. Fortunately, I ended up needing a second wrapper for our recent Victorian weekend in Port Townsend, which gave me an excuse to make it up. While I didn't actually use a pattern, this wrapper is mostly based off the construction methods in the Kayfig KF611 wrapper pattern. It has a fitted back and…
A straight-forward pinner apron, for our favorite cook. Guess I wasn't quite done with the Christmas presents, after all. Pinner apron. The Workwoman's Guide ( fig 14, plate 11 ) calls this a cooking apron, saying: This is a neat pattern for a housekeeper, cook, or kitchen-maid. The bib is quite plain, and pins to the gown at the corners. The size given in the Plate is suitable for a girl, but the…
Cotton Wrapper, c.1840s, Kent State University Museum. Since a direct link doesn't work, a search for item "1984.002.0045 ab" in the Kent State University Museum 's online collection is the best way to see the alternative views of this lovely cotton print (especially the final detail view of the printed fabric up close, and the front-on view which shows the diagonal grid of the pelerine front to…
Just a few small maintenance projects this month. My red stockings needed darning again, and I also re-attached the outersoles of my low 1840s shoes , which had partially separated over the wet autumn/winter.
Last of the Christmas presents have found their way home. I did manage a few pairs of not-for-historical reenacting socks in the process. Nothing too technically interesting, because the self-striping yarn is fun enough on its own. Orange and pink tones. Used the 60 cylinder: hung hems, 3-1 mock ribbing, with short row heels and toes. I did 20 rows on the hung hem (makes a nice ~1" hemmed edge),…
Camera deleted the pre-party picture, alas. Repeating the 1857 Godey's Twelfth Cake recipe , because I like it. This year's attempt at a more accurate cake was in the icing: instead of a buttercream, I opted for the more appropriate royal icing. It was still a bit of a departure from original practice, in that I used meringue powder to avoid serving raw eggs, but that's a line I'm comfortable with…
Based on the pattern given in The Comprehensive Knitting Book (1849). "For a full size sock:" thirty-six rows ribbing (1-1) or (2-2), then 30 rows knitting plain, heel, plain knitting through the foot, and then close the toe. I used Knitpicks' palette yarn, which is my current go-to for socks and stockings, in the bright red colorway. Socks. As the original pattern is for hand-knitting, the…
For the 10th Day of Christmas, some references for a particular variety of warm garment, generally called a sontag in reenacting circles. As you can see, there's a lot of variation in the terminology, but all of these garments are sleeveless knit or crochet pieces which cover the chest, back, and shoulders (more or less). Some fasten close around the body with ties and buttons, while others have…
Looking ahead to my sewing goals for 2026, it's time to start on a few 'someday' projects in eras I haven't often done. I'll start with the ones which I expect to have opportunities to use this year: Evening dress for a c.1926 event (October) New nightgown for mid- Victorian camping events (February) 16th century wool gown and kirtle, ideally in time for the Two Rivers, which can get cold. A 1776…
I do enjoy the difference that a century can make in clothing styles. Here's where we were 100 years ago: Summer 1926 day dress, House of Paquin. From VAM . And to the folks of 1926, this style was just as old as their clothing is to us: Promenade Dress from Ackerman's Repository , January 1826. From LACMA . It's interesting to reflect on these styles side-by-side. Both eras are playing around…
It's time to see how I did this year . Projects finished one week before the event. Helpful with triaging projects, and mostly adhered to. Finish the chemises and drawers in my WIP basket. Yes. Didn't post them though. And I found a few more cut-out pieces that weren't in the to-sew basket. Green plaid 1850s dress. Was able to wear it this summer as planned, though late in posting it. Red wool…
Another old project which never got posted; I made this corset for wearing with my linen traveling suit for an event in June 2023. I ended up wearing it with the edges raw, and then it spent another two years in my to-do basket before the binding got added. Nothing like a photo to reveal the last few threads that need snipping. I used the same material and hardware as for the 1870s and 1890s…
Puffed undersleeves. One of the last items out of the "to do" basket for this year: the puffed undersleeves I started for a long-cancelled workshop back in January 2020. At the time, I recall working from one of those small magazine illustrations, excited to find one made from Swiss dot, which I had on hand. Possible inspiration, Peterson's Feb 1858. Unfortunately, I didn't seem to save…
December was pretty busy with Christmas living history events and making presents, but I found time for some mending tasks which came up. My long-suffering apron. I pulled a few inches of gathering out of my print apron late in November, but re-stitched it all while waiting for a car repair appointment. Timely, now that I'm back in the Nisqually kitchen about once a month. I also managed to tear a…
Computer troubles have stymied my usual 'blog all 12 days of Christmas' plan, but I did find a fun new resource to share: The Royal School of Needlework's online Stitch Bank . They have a written description of each embroidery stitch, with step-by-step photographs and video of how to do it. I really enjoyed the tagging system (covering both the type of stitchand its uses), which allowed me to…
The Christmas Tree, in The Children's Treasure , December 1, 1873.
Tidying up the blog before the year ends, and realized I never photographed my final batch of pickles last August. The last historic receipts I tried were Pickled Cucumbers and Pickled Radish Pods , based on the recipes in "Cookery Made Easy" (1845). What an attractively arranged shelf! As usual, I followed modern canning processes for safely, but used the historic flavor profiles with allspice,…
The last part of my new winter 1850s ensemble was a pair of side-lacing gaiter to match my new basque outfit with its knit under-sleeves . I did have them finished for both Christmas events, as I had hoped. The green and purple gaiters are single-soled, so I've only been wearing them for indoor events, while the low shoes from this spring have had a busy year of wear and need some fixing, making…