Hot Girls Have Melasma (But They Wear The Right SPF!)

If I’ve only ever done three good things for my skin, they are as follows: drinking a ton of water on a daily basis, always washing my face before bed, and wearing the right SPF.

The water and washing are easy in terms of consistency, but using the right sunscreen is a task I’ve had to really work at over the years — especially as I’ve grown and my skin has undergone major changes.

As someone who dealt with pretty intense cystic acne during my high school and college years, my biggest concern when it came to SPF was finding something non-comedogenic. Bonus points for oil-free. Even more bonus points if it had a makeup-like tint so I didn’t let my insecurities gaslight me into wearing a full face of foundation to the pool.

I’m still very much in the practice of avoiding formulas that might break me out, but it’s no longer my main concern when it comes to sunscreen. I remember when things changed like it was yesterday (it was actually the summer of 2020).

I was taking a break from the beach to hit the restroom when I glimpsed my reflection in the mirror above the sink and saw what I can only describe as the ultimate jumpscare: a full-blown mustache.

Except, I didn’t really grow much hair above my upper lip. Never had! And as I analyzed the skin, I realized there wasn’t any hair there at all. The skin was just…dark.

Darker than it had been just hours earlier. In fact, a patch just below my hairline looked a bit darker, too. And why did it appear as though I had some sort of heinous permanent brown lip liner tattoo?

The shift felt instant. But it was pretty much permanent.

Welcome to life with melasma!

For those who don’t know, melasma is what happens when skin’s melanocytes produce excess melanin. This can be caused by genetics, hormones, or general UV exposure. And in my case, it came out of nowhere, and never really went away.

Even though I love to sit outside in the summer, I’m pretty religious about sunscreen and shade. While I do tan my body, I never, ever put my face in the sun. I’ve always got a hat or a visor on standby! The only time my face is exposed at the beach is when I’m swimming in the water. But, still.

I can’t wear a hat all day, every day (I mean, I could, but I’m not going to). And the sun is indeed out, all day, every day. Of course, there are moments of near-dormancy mixed in with the can’t-miss flareups, but I will likely never not have melasma.

Things could be worse, but as a Very Vain Girl (VVG), I won’t lie: this realization near broke me. I felt hopeless and helpless, even as my dermatologist provided me with the necessary tips and tools for management:

Wear a hat. Skip the sun. Apply hydroquinone. Wear a physical sunscreen.

That last one threw me for a loop. Physical sunscreen? I didn’t even know what that meant. But after extensive research, I learned the difference between physical and chemical SPFs — and why the former is ideal for someone, like me, with melasma.

I could put it in layman’s terms, but I’d rather you hear it from an actual doctor. Cue Dr. Antony Nakhla, board-certified dermatologist, dermatologic surgeon, clinical researcher, and founder of Eighth Day, the maker of my new favorite SPF and the brand so kindly sponsoring today’s melasma-trauma-dump of a newsletter.

“Chemical sunscreens absorb UV rays after they penetrate the skin and convert them to heat through a chemical reaction. That process generates free radicals which can cause inflammation and irritation,” shares Dr. Nakhla. “For melasma sufferers, that distinction is particularly important, since heat and inflammation are known triggers. Mineral sunscreens sit on the surface of the skin and physically reflect UV away. No absorption, no heat generation, no free radical formation.”

I often wonder if the heat generated by wearing my mask in 2020 was what initially sparked the melasma framing my mouth, but I’m less focused on its origin story, and more interested in prevention.

And so, I’ve begun relying primarily on physical or mineral SPFs for the face, like Eighth Day’s The Rejuvenating Moisturizing Primer Broad Spectrum SPF 30.

Not all physical sunscreens feel great on my skin. In fact, many unfortunately break me out. But this formula feels like a makeup primer or a super lightweight moisturizer; after it sinks in, it doesn’t feel like I’m wearing anything heavy on my skin at all. Because of this — and all the great-for-my-skin ingredients, which we’ll get to in just a bit — it’s earned the coveted #1 SPF spot in my beach bag.

• A hat, although it’s more likely on my head, because I refuse to take it off unless I’m swimming or shielded by a beach umbrella. My current favorite is a malleable straw bucket from Vince that feels less look-at-me than some of my larger, floppy options.

• A good book or craft is a beach bag essential for me! I’m currently reading Yesteryear by Caro Claire Burke (like everyone else), but I find myself abandoning the pages to tend to my new fixation: needlepointing! I learned a few basic stitches during my trip in Nantucket, and it turns out it’s the perfect poolside craft to keep my hands busy while gossiping with the girls.

• Multiple different claw clips and hair combs for the brief moments I’m without my hat. Usually to help my hair air-dry nicely post-swim, or just keep it out of my face while I’m reading! My Honeymoon claw clip in Honey Stripe is my favorite right now, but I’ve also got a great french hair comb like this one that I picked up in Florence which is great for when I’m laying flat.

• My sunnies. I typically designate a specific pair of glasses to be my “beach sunnies” each season so I don’t get my nicer pairs all sticky and sandy, but these Miu Mius have been the only pair to grace my face since early May. They’re perfection!

• A layer. I’m never without either a linen shirt (like this one from Intimissimi!) or a lightweight knit for days when I’ve gotten too much sun. At some point, piling on the SPF isn’t enough — I need physical coverage a la a piece of fabric. It’s more practical than anything else, but I try to gaslight myself into thinking I look very vintage J. Crew catalogue-esque. Whatever works!

• This Eadem gloss, which — it turns out — is 10000% worth the hype. I love Le Chouchou Exfoliating + Softening Peptide Lip Balm in shades Sakura Shaved Ice (a milky pink) and Fig Sauce (a cool-toned mauve). My lips don’t have a lot of natural pigment save for the melasma framing them, so adding some color really makes a big difference.

• Let this cute blue Abbode pouch be representative of the multiple pouches I jam into my beach bag. I’m big on pouch-packing when it comes to a pool day! I like everything in its own separate section of my bag, so I don’t dirty things up when I reach in with wet, salty, or sandy hands.

• Flip flops. An obvious summer essential, and I’m pretty fixated on this pair from Macy’s for under $60 bucks. They have chunky paillette-shaped shells that make them appear somehow both beachy and slightly dressy, and they’re just as comfortable as a pair of Havianas.

• My SPF, of course! The Rejuvenating Moisturizing Primer Broad Spectrum SPF 30, to be exact. I’m also in the habit of mixing in a few drops of the Rhode Highlight Milk for a little bronzy glow. Since I don’t tan my face, it’s often a few shades lighter than my body, so this helps to even things out.

• A beachy perfume, should I decide to stay late for happy hour without proper time to shower. Rather than try to mask the smell of a day in the sun with a floral or vanilla scent, I opt for something inherently beachy to enhance in all the right ways. Vacation by Vacation Eau de Toilette is ideal — other options on rotation include Replica Beach Walk and DS & Durga Crush Balls, which smells distinctly of a summer tennis match.

• Any mini air-dry cream I can find. Right now, it’s the JVN one, which I really like, but I’m also partial to Bumble & Bumble’s Seaweed Styling Cream. I like the Crown Affair mousse, too, but I don’t have a travel-size version at the moment.

Intrigued by my new favorite formula, I chatted with Dr. Nakhla to learn more about Eighth Day overall. Here are a few notable excerpts from our convo:

BGF: How did your lived experience as a derm inspire you to begin a brand?

AN: Working on over 10,000 surgical patients gave me a front row seat to what skin is actually capable of. Its innate ability to heal and regenerate when given the right signals is remarkable. What I kept seeing in the market were products that ignored that biology. The science existed, but the skincare didn’t.

My patients who wanted clinical results had to accept a clinical experience. Those who wanted something luxurious were giving up efficacy. I wanted to build something that didn’t ask them to choose. That’s what Eighth Day is.

BGF: That makes sense, and I really see that with the brand’s SPF 30. I’ve always sought out SPFs with zinc because of my melasma, but they don’t usually feel so luxe. I used to dread applying them.

AN: Our Rejuvenating Moisturizing Primer SPF 30 is built around EpiZinc™, a proprietary non-nanoparticle zinc oxide technology. Zinc oxide offers broader UVA coverage than titanium dioxide and has natural anti-inflammatory properties, making it particularly well suited for sensitive and melasma-prone skin.

The tinted formula also contains iron oxides which provide an additional layer of protection against visible light, another known melasma trigger that standard SPF doesn’t address.

BGF: Yes, I love the tint! It’s also great for preventing white cast. Was user diversity kept in mind when developing that finish?

AN: Absolutely. The natural pigments are there specifically to neutralize the white cast that zinc oxide inherently produces. We worked to ensure they perform across all skin tones and types.

BGF: Eighth Day’s formulas are touted as “bio-identical.” What exactly does that mean?

AN: Eighth Day formulas use ingredients that are biologically identical to the molecules already found in your skin (unlike plant stem cells or ingredients sourced from the ocean, for example).

We speak the language of skin, communicating directly with skin cells in their own native code to stimulate more of their own collagen, elastin and hyaluronic acid. We’re essentially giving your skin the fuel it needs to repair and renew itself.

BGF: I’m so nosy, but can you tell me your personal summer skincare routine?

AN: The fundamentals don’t change with the season. Morning I cleanse, apply a multi-purpose serum, and finish with a mineral SPF. That last step is non-negotiable year-round but in summer I’m more deliberate about reapplication midday.

At night I cleanse again, apply the serum and follow with a retinoid. Where summer does shift things is in moisturizer weight: I’ll move to something lighter when heat and humidity make a richer cream unnecessary. Otherwise, the routine stays consistent. Consistency is always the goal, regardless of season.

BGF: Skincare has become so trend-driven as of late. What might you say to folks who approach buying skincare and SPF through a more consumerist lens (i.e. buying only the most popular products from the hottest It Brands) instead of a dermatological lens (i.e. with actual skin concerns and ingredient priorities top of mind)?

AN: Look at the ingredients. Popularity is not a proxy for efficacy. The most important question to ask about any SPF is whether the active ingredient is doing what you need it to do. Broad spectrum protection, the right concentration and a formulation you will actually wear every day are most important.

At the end of the day any sunscreen is better than none. But if you’re going to invest in one product, understand what’s in it and why.

I chat a lot to my friends about my melasma — especially when we’re poolside — and while I’ve recommended plenty of sunscreens I personally love over the years, I feel especially good about recommending this one going forward.

It’s a definite splurge, but as I often tell my younger sister when she doesn’t want to wear any SPF at all: you only get one face! To me, that feels like something worth investing in. And at the very least: wear a hat, please.

x BGF