Twenty years later, I always return to the coast of Oaxaca...

Hello from Marseille,

It’s no news that I love the Coast of Oaxaca, in Southern Mexico. Everything I do somehow revolves around this place, and it has been like this for over twenty years. No matter where I live, Mexico City, New York, or now Marseille, I always find myself back there, at least twice a year. Most of the production for my brand Behind the Hill happens on this coast, and I now even have a house there, Monte LALALA, up on the hill overlooking the ocean. So yes, this place is a huge part of me.

Sometimes I ask myself why. Why do I always come back? There are so many countries I could visit, so many parts of Mexico I still don’t know. But I always end up in this part of the world. Maybe because nowhere else feels quite as much like home while still being wildly exotic; I don’t know. The Coast of Oaxaca has a rhythm of life that’s hard to explain: it’s slow but alive. To me, everything makes sense when I’m there.

I first arrived in Puerto Escondido in December 2003 (way before Instagram or even WhatsApp… omg).

I was twenty-four, freshly moved to Mexico City, still learning Spanish and trying to find my place. One weekend, with an ex-boyfriend, a backpack, and not many pesos, I decided to go to the beach. The trip took forever: thirteen hours by bus from Mexico City to Puerto Escondido, then a colectivo to Pochutla, and finally a ride in the back of a pickup truck to Mazunte.

When I finally arrived, I remember the smell; a mix of tropical forest, sand, salt, and corn tortillas. It was the first time I had ever felt this kind of freedom. Mazunte was then a small fishing village with sandy roads, and cabanas made of wood and palms, no ATMs, and not much to do. Women went early to the market, then spent the day cooking on open fires, their kitchens filled with the smell of tortillas and wood smoke. The men left before sunrise to fish, and later gathered around their boats to clean their nets, share news, and have their first beer of the day.

The few tourists who made it there (mostly Italians, French, and Argentinians in their Mid-20s) adjusted to the pace quickly. There wasn’t much to organize or plan. Days passed between swims, long meals, and lazy afternoons in the shade. Every evening, people drifted toward the beach or to Punta Cometa to watch the sun go down. It was almost a ceremony: we’d sit, wait, and fall silent for a few minutes as the sky turned orange. When the sun finally slipped under the horizon, a round of applause would rise from the (small) crowd.

At night, some people would gather again by the fogata, someone would bring a drum, and music would last until late.

This place changed something in me. I had left France six months earlier, far from my family and everything familiar. And here, in this small village by the ocean, everything was possible. It was simple and beautiful.

Over the years, the entire coast has changed. Puerto Escondido has become a destination in itself, with design hotels, beach clubs, and restaurants serving natural wine and vegan tostadas. Along the coast, from Punta Zicatela to Zipolite, beautifully designed houses keep appearing. There’s a sense of creative energy everywhere now; architects, chefs, and artists are drawn here by the same light and raw beauty that once attracted only a handful of travelers.

It’s a different world than the one I discovered twenty years ago. Sometimes I miss that world before Instagram and Airbnb; when we traveled with no anticipation, no idea of what we would find, and no need to photograph it all. Back then, travel felt more like discovery, less like content. But somehow, on the Coast of Oaxaca, you can still find places that remain untouched and preserved, small stretches of beach or quiet villages where time still moves at its own pace. Fishermen still go out before sunrise, the smell of tortillas still fills the air, and the ocean still humbles you every time you look at it. And of course, every sunset is still a gift.

So much of what I do today comes from that part of the world. My work with artisans started not far from the coast, in small weaving communities up in the Sierra, where heirloom colored cotton grows and where Indigenous weavers still process cotton the way their ancestors did 500 years ago. The Coast taught me patience and respect, for the crafts, for the people, for the land.

Twenty years later, my connection to this place feels even stronger. The house I built with friends in Mermejita, up the hill facing the Pacific, is my refuge. It took years to finish…many challenges, many lessons, but it’s a real labor of love. Every choice, every detail, is rooted in this land: local materials, colors inspired by the earth, light that changes all day long. It’s simple, but to me, it’s perfection. (Check it out here)

Every time I come back, something in me clicks. I watch my kids running barefoot on the same beach where I once arrived with a backpack, and I realize this place has witnessed every version of me: the student, the traveler, the lover, the mother, the woman I am now.

So today, I want to share a little bit of that magic with you. I’ve prepared a five-day itinerary along the Pacific Coast of Oaxaca from Puerto Escondido to Mazunte: a journey through the best this coast has to offer. It can be done solo, with friends, or with kids. It’s about disconnecting, preserving the wild nature of the Coast, and exploring the best of Oaxacan flavors.

As usual, I’m keeping my detailed itineraries for subscribers, not to gatekeep, but because these guides are very personal. They come from years of exploring, taking notes, and meeting people along the way. I share them only with those who truly want to experience the Coast as I do: slowly, respectfully, and off the beaten path.

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I like to land in Puerto Escondido. It’s what I’ve done for years, and by now I have my little routine. The other option is to fly into Huatulco and make your way north toward Puerto Escondido, but I always prefer starting here.

There are plenty of beautiful Airbnb options in Puerto Escondido, and you’ll easily find something for every style and budget. I personally like to stay at local hotels whenever I can, there are two beautiful options I like to recommend:

If you’re celebrating a special event, Casona Sforza is my top choice. It’s an upscale, beautifully designed property with a minimalist aesthetic and an incredible sense of calm. (Kids are not allowed) The restaurant holds a Michelin star and is worth visiting even if you’re not staying there.

When I travel with my family, I always stay at Villas Carrizalillo. It’s comfortable and easy, with small independent villas (for 2 to 6 people), a pool, and a delicious restaurant (Espadin) overlooking Playa Carrizalillo. The view alone makes me happy every time. I never look further; this is where we go as a family.

This is not for everyone, but I love to start the day as early as possible with a swim in the ocean. From Villas Carrizalillo, you have direct access to the beach down the stairs. Early in the morning, it’s all yours.

Or make your way to Puerto Angelito nearby, where the sun hits the beach earlier. Have a swim, watch the local fishermen with their catch, then head back to your hotel for breakfast. You’re ready to start the day.

Begin by exploring the Mercado Benito Juárez, the main market in town. Smell the fresh tropical fruits, taste the best bananas you’ve ever had, ask about the medicinal herbs sold at almost every stand, and pick up some freshly ground coffee or cinnamon from the small shops outside.

For a typical Oaxacan lunch with zero tourists, go to Las Juquileñas, a few blocks from the market. The second floor is quieter and a great spot to cool down.

In the afternoon, take time to explore Bacocho, one of Puerto’s quieter neighborhoods. You’ll find small shops selling crafts from different parts of Oaxaca, delicious ice cream, and some of the best coffee in town.

Before sunset, head to Playa Bacocho for the turtle release. It’s touristy, yes, but still magical to watch the tiny turtles crawl toward the ocean. (I highly recommend to book a mission-oriented organization like this one)

For dinner, book a table at Chicama, the Peruvian restaurant in Zicatela, for ceviche and pisco sours, or at Almoraduz, known for its modern take on coastal cuisine.

Take the morning to explore beyond Puerto. Drive north along the coast, in the direction of Pinotepa Nacional, for about an hour.