Reading · Off the Beaten Path

Hello from Mumbai,

By now, you probably know this about me: I’m at my best when I arrive somewhere I don’t know. Even better if I’m a little lost. And better still if the culture around me is completely new territory.

Arriving in a city with no plans, no recommendations, no list of “must-sees” is the feeling I always look for when I travel. I don’t want to experience a place through other people’s eyes. I want to walk, observe, follow my intuition, talk to locals, get it wrong, and find my way back. For me, this is what freedom feels like.

I’m currently in Mumbai, after spending two weeks traveling through India to explore craftsmanship and cotton production with a clear program and a few meetings. Coming to Mumbai wasn’t planned. At the very last minute, I decided to end my trip in the city, on my own. No program, no expectations. I booked a hotel that seemed well located and charming, and that was it. I hadn’t checked anything else. I had been to Mumbai once before, fifteen years ago, as a young backpacker, but nothing since.

And something shifted as soon as I arrived.

That feeling I thought I had lost came back: visiting a city with no maps, no images in mind. I’ve spent the last three days here, and the excitement never left me. Partly because I was exploring on my own, which is still my favorite way to travel, but also because Mumbai draws me in, against all odds.

It’s busy, polluted, noisy, crowded. Sometimes quite dirty. And yet, I find it deeply beautiful. The old, magnificent buildings decaying, tropical trees growing on their facades like they do on Mayan ruins. The street vendors, the colors, the smells, the life everywhere. And all the independent small shops.

In three days, I only saw a handful of Westerners, mostly at the hotel. The rest of the time, I felt far from anything that resembled tourism. Maybe Mumbai is one of those cities that mass tourism hasn’t touched yet. Or maybe I simply didn’t look for it. I didn’t check anything online, so I have no idea whether Mumbai is even considered a “destination.”

The whole time, I kept wondering what it is that I love so much here. Is it the city itself, or is it a feeling? I think, beyond what the city offers, Mumbai allows me to reconnect with a younger version of myself.

It takes me back to when I moved to Mexico City in 2003. Before social media. Before WhatsApp. Mexico City wasn’t considered cool or desirable back then. It was seen as dangerous. We were just a small group of students living in a city where everything felt possible and untouched by tourism (yet)

That’s the feeling I’m always chasing when I travel.

However, I’m not as fearless as I was at 22. So this time, I hired a private guide to show me around for a couple of hours every day. It allowed me to keep my own rhythm and desires, but with the knowledge of someone local. It felt like the right balance. More than exploring the city, I wanted to understand the culture: he gave me an intro about Hinduism (fascinating!) He also took me to Dharavi, the largest slum in Asia, to better understand how life is organized there (also fascinating!).

Soon, I’ll write about the last two weeks in India, focusing on crafts and artisans’ workshops in rural areas. But for now, a few simple notes from Mumbai, in case you ever find yourself here:

Hotel: Hotel Abode - truly a gem, with rooms for different budgets
Food: Leopold Cafe, Chetana, Kitchen Garden, Bademiya, Cafe Mondegar
Neighborhoods: Kala Ghoda, Colaba, Phoolgali flower market
Antiques & vintage: Many small shops are located behind the Taj Mahal Hotel
Ayurvedic wellness: Sukhdaa Wellness
Feel free to share this note to a friend who will travel to India soon
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Today, I’m flying back to my family. My suitcase is full of textiles, notes, swatches, and contacts. And my heart is full too: full of that feeling that keeps me on my toes and feeds my soul.

And since I’m traveling alone, I guess I’m sharing it with you.

No maps, no expectations.

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