Note: This is the second installment of a two-part essay on Srilanka. You can read this as a standalone piece, but it would be incomplete. For a more enjoyable experience, you can read the first part here.
“I will take that for you sir!”
Chamara is waiting patiently so that he can help us transport the luggage from our room to the taxi. It is 9:45 am and Shashi is right on time with his spic and span white sedan. I have been in Sri Lanka for three days, breathing clean air, meeting generous and kind people and experiencing hospitality of the highest order. I have already described my experience of Central Srilanka in the first part. It is now time to continue the journey and move to the South.
As I see cars and motorcycles zooming past us, I could not help but notice the different number plate system on the vehicles. Shashi breaks it down for me, graciously dealing with my endlessly curious personality. The Southern Expressway is replete with road signs of ‘Danger! Peacock Ahead’. Shashi keeps the speed in check as he explains how the expressway sees accidents because of peacock crossings.
The drive is so peaceful that it is impossible to not get consumed by it. I don't realize how 3 hours pass by as I sight the first view of the southern coastline. I bid goodbye to Shashi and settle in my BnB. I wait for the sun to cool down before leaving for a stroll on the Unawatuna Beach, a 10-minute drive from our BnB.
The sand has cooled down. As I move closer, the cool breeze is hitting my face. I don’t need any music because the sound of the waves is mellifluous. The sky is shade of orange and the sun is slowly being engulfed by the ocean. The water is clear and the surrounding palm trees make for a spectacular view.
I am enjoying sitting on the beach, disconnected from the world, adrift in deep thought. As it starts to get dark, the cabanas and shacks light up. I have had a refreshing dip and am taking a stroll on the beach as I see the fresh stack of fish getting dumped over ice and being displayed in a decorative manner to lure tourists.
Though I am surrounded by plenty of dinner options, the Thaproban Beach Restaurant catches our eye. It has a stunning setup and a seating with close proximity to the beach. Talk about ambience and vibe! Kishore notices us conversing in Hindi. He tries speaking in Hindi but is not very fluent. He understands properly though. I am curious how. Apparently, he has been working in the hospitality sector for a long time and is well conversant with multiple languages. This could be a salesperson pulling a trick out of his bag but the small gesture brings a personal touch to our evening.
I leave for Mirissa the next day. It’s a 45 minute drive from Unawatuna. While locking my itinerary, I decided to keep Unawatuna as the base for the Southern coast expedition. Galle, Mirissa, Ahangama and Welligama are all within an hour distance from Unawatuna. Galle is just 15 minute away and has frequent trains running to Colombo.
Our first destination in Mirissa is the Coconut Tree Hill.
This place made it to my itinerary solely on social media hype. It is picturesque, no doubt. Yes, you will get gram worthy pictures as well. But that is it. It will not captivate you. And even for pictures, you will have to be there at the right time. Because remember when I said, there is a content creator in everyone. The place gets crowded quickly and there is a cat and mouse chase happening to get the desired shot. Early morning is the ideal time and if your are going for just pictures you should aim for that.
I don’t spend more than 15 minutes at the Tree Hill. I have already researched for lunch options in Mirissa and make a quick walk to Petti Petti. Not very far from the Tree Hill. The view here is stunning but I am more excited about the food. And it more than lives up to my expectations.
The Pizza is delicious. The base is extremely soft, melting effortlessly in my mouth. It is so good that my stomach is full but my heart craves more. Even the other items I have - Pasta for example are lip-smacking. The vegetarian options are limited though. I find the place slightly on the pricier side than other places I have been to in Sri Lanka. But the food is absolutely worth it.
I am now itching to go to the Parrot Rock. This island rock offers a panoramic view of the Mirissa Beach, not to mention the gorgeous colours and shades of the sky if you go at the right time, which is during the sunset. I have to traverse through the ocean waters to reach the rock. The current is strong and going to the rock has suddenly turned into an unplanned adventure. The Rock in itself is a natural marvel. I don’t think I can ever get tired of the view. I was told it is a hidden gem but the crowd here suggests otherwise.
I am loving the Beach vibe. Or maybe its the Sri Lanka magic. I realize there is one thing common in the mountains and the beaches - their magnanimity. I can sit for hours just staring at them and admiring their vastness.
It is now time for some café-hopping and a new destination.
Ahangama beach is not as populated as Mirissa or Unawatuna. But its cafes are always bustling. There are two in particular I am eager to try out. First is the Cafe UFO. This place is famous for its coffee.
For a coffee lover, UFO is a must-visit place. Espresso, Matcha, Cold Brew - the menu has variety and is packed with options. I try their Lavendar cold brew. It tastes bitter at first but the acquired taste is fantastic. I am in bliss. I also try their regular cold brew and it is delightful too.
They also have specialized food bowls, Waffles and Toasts. I have my dinner already planned and hence decide to skip. The folks running the place are enthusiastic and I have a short but enriching conversation about our shared love for coffee.
I take their leave and move to Hotel De Uncles for the night. The Karaoke night brings me here. But they also happen to have a breathtaking beach face sitting. I am looking to try something native and decide to give Kottu a try - a local dish prepared by chopping roti into tiny pieces and mixing it with vegetables and aromatic spices. Delicious and a must try!
As the cool wind splashes across my face while I have my drink, I notice song dedications being made. Friend to friend. Husband to wife. Boyfriend to girlfriend. Or between random acquaintance made on the vacation.
Before retiring for the night, we make one last stop - Piccadily Parlour. Can’t quit the day without the desert.
The Southern Coast feels less personal than the Central part. The vibe here is more touristy and I am missing the warmth and personal conversations. It is also a bit more chaotic. The Pick Me App, that has been been my trusted companion till now in Sri Lanka, does not work efficiently here. I am told its because of the taxi lobby but for a traveller, it is an inconvenience.
Rain curtails my plans for the next day. I had planned to explore Welligama today - a place famous for surfing. I am constrained by time but I hope to take surfing classes and give surfing a try when I come back next. Fortunately, the rain gods show mercy and I get few hours in the evening to sneak out of our BnB.
The Jungle Beach is just a 15-20 minute drive away. The name pops up all types of imagination in my mind and I am excited to see what this place has to offer. I discover that this one of the hidden spots near Unawatuna and Galle. The route is clearly defined and has a calm about it.
The vehicles can go till a certain point. From there, it is a 20-minute trek. It is not a hike or a climb. But the walk is thrilling. I walk through the dense jungle with no human chatter. I can only hear the voice of my slippers rubbing against the muddy path and the echoes of the sounds of the birds. The air is fresh. My mind is thanking me for this.
The trek leads to a small beach and it is beautiful. The crowd here is negligible. I see a shack offering refreshments, hinting that people do turn up here but maybe rain has kept them away today. A group of people are taking their evening dip. It has started to get dark, mostly because of the grey clouds that have been hovering in the sky.
The starting point of the trek also leads to Rumasella Temple and Japanese Peace Pagoda.
My few hours of no-rain time are over. It starts to pelt again and I get drenched in the rain, just as I start to descend. This is not a passing shower and I am compelled to stay in our BnB for the night. I go to enquire about dinner and happen to meet Tushar and Kaveri, the owners of the property.
We talk about everything from cricket to Bollywood. I am fascinated by how much Tushar knows about India. He tells me he is a big Madhuri and Amitabh fan and has a big smile plastered on his face as shares his love for Hindi movies of the 80’s and 90’s. By now, I have come to appreciate the deep ties between the two nations. We have a long and enriching conversation. He even helps me with tomorrow’s ride. It is time to move to our last destination and probably the most exciting one. You’ll soon find out why.
It is my last day in Sri Lanka. I am in Galle, a place famous for its architecture and history. As I traverse through the narrow lanes to reach my Hotel, I come across a cozy household. A Red Tuk Tuk is parked in the courtyard. I see a kid sitting in the garden. He must be around 14-15 years old.
“Whose Tuk Tuk?”, I politely enquire.
“It's my father's”, he replies.
I ask because I was looking for a ride to the Galle Fort. I don’t sight his father around. So, I smile and that is the end of the conversation.
I check-in and dump my luggage. I am passing through the same lane and heading out to the main road. This time, I notice a girl sitting in the courtyard. I acknowledge her and continue looking for my ride. After 5 minutes or so, a person comes running asking me if I need a Tuk Tuk. He happens to be the owner of the house I had passed by. His son must have told him that I was enquiring about the Tuk Tuk.
Rajesh is bustling with enthusiasm when he sees me. He tells me he owns the Tuk Tuk. A red colour one parked stylishly in one corner of the garden cum courtyard of his house. He asks us to wait while he gets ready. Meanwhile, he introduces us to his children and also share stories about other travelers.
His red tuk tuk is not like any other. Rajesh has modified and carved a sunroof, which he advertises to attract tourists and travelers. He happily obliges for pictures, sometimes even compels, all to delight the tourists and popularize the offering. While it looks like a gimmick at first, I do enjoy the ride standing and peeking out of the sun roof. It is a different experience.
The Fort is just 10 minutes away. He drops us the entrance. The guides start hovering around us with their tour packages and discounts. I give them a pass. I take the stairs and start my fort expedition. The place feels untouched by time.
On one side, is the Indian Ocean. The other side hosts the Clock Tower. And in the middle sits the Galle International Stadium. I have seen people catching a glimpse of the cricket matches from the fort. The view of the stadium from the fort is an “absolute treat”.
The Galle Fort Clock Tower stands as a symbol of gratitude and benevolence. It was built through public subscriptions by the people of Galle to honor Dr. Peter Daniel Anthonisz, a renowned local doctor and Surgeon.
The design was created by John Henry Gues Landon, and the clock was donated by Mudaliyar Samson de Abrew Rajapakse, a grateful patient of Dr. Anthonisz.
Galle has kept it's history and culture intact. It is a great city for enthusiasts of history, architecture and nature. My next stop is Peddler's Street for lunch. The ancient Dutch architecture here feels like a warm hug. The sky is gloriously blue in Galle but the temperature is soaring.
The Peddler's Street is bustling with tourists. Mostly foreign. Not to forget the locals, who have gathered in large numbers at the lighthouse to watch the sunset. The clouds are playing a spoilsport but the setting is a scenery we used to draw in our colour books. When nature turns up, there are very few things that can match it's beauty.
Some kids are engaged in kite flying competition. Under a tree shade, one Popcorn and candy vendor have gathered a decent audience. It is crowded but the vibe is celebratory.
I retire for the night as I have an early morning train to Colombo. I had already informed Rajesh and he is outside my hotel before time in the morning. The station is 10 minutes away. When we reach, I get down and my eyes are set on the sky. It looks beautiful. And then I sight the Rainbow. I guess Galle had one last surprise planned for us.
If you don’t know this about me yet, cricket is an integral part of my life. I am really keen about the history of the game and religiously spend time researching and writing about it. I also run a passion project by the name Cricket Field Chronicles and if you share the passion, you can read my work here.
In my quest for the same, I like to visit places which enlighten me about it. The Galle cricket stadium has been on my bucket list for quite some time. It is one those stadiums which is not just picturesque but also holds a lot of history and landmark cricket moments. For instance, Muttiah Muralidharan picked his 800th wicket on this very ground while playing the final test match of his career.
I am not allowed entry into the stadium and understandably so. Why would they let a random tourist enter the stadium? I am determined though. I beg and plead. I tell them I am from India and it is important for me to see the stadium. It is important. I have dreamt of it for so long. The administrator sees through my pleadings. He allows me a quick 5-minute visit, albeit with a guard present.
I drop my backpack and run towards the entrance. A small, narrow and dimly lit path leads to the ground. Picture the many back angle shots in a sports movie. Where a coach or a player is exiting a tunnel into the stadium. It feels exactly like that. Only that I have the ground empty and no arousing cheers of my name.
I enter the ground. There is a knee-level fence guarding the ground. For a change, it is good to see a stadium that doesn’t feel like jail. That doesn’t create boundaries between the players and the viewers. No cricket is happening but I can only feel and imagine the thrill of watching a Test match here in such close proximity and with a UNESCO World Heritage in the background.
The stadium hosted its first test in 1998. No major alteration could be done to the stadium at it stands in the vicinity of a UNESCO World heritage site. The stadium was terribly damaged during the 2004 Tsunami and was rebuilt with the help of Surrey Cricket Club and cricketers Shane Warne and Ian Botham.
Even with all the new additions, it remains a small-capacity stadium. But I am not complaining. I like to watch my cricket in peace, without the hullaballoo and in company of people who understand the game. Galle International Stadium checks them all.
My love for cricket history takes me to the Sri Lanka Cricket Museum in Colombo. It is my first time visiting a cricket museum. And this is what I saw:
I hope to see a cricket museum in India one day. Given our almost 100-year-old rich history, it is a disappointment we still don’t have a place that celebrates our legacy the cricketers and their achievements.
I am sitting in the waiting area of the Bandaranaike International Airport. There is a certain sense of satisfaction that I was able to plan this whole itinerary on my own. No agent, planner or guide. Naturally, I have my friends to thank. And the many travel bloggers and content creators who share authentic information. One of the many perks of living in the social media era.
Could I have done better? Maybe. I missed going to Kandy and Sigiriya. Couldn't fit in Dikwella, Hiriketiya and Welligama in the itinerary. The weather forbid us from experiencing whale watching in Mirissa. I start to feel that I have left more than what I have covered. But that's Srilanka for you. It demands your time and complete attention.
I know I will be back someday. To complete what I left. And to revisit what I enjoyed and became a part of me. Till then, Ayubowan!
This brings me to the end of a long and detailed travel essay series. It is first of a kind I am trying, taking you, the reader, on the journey through Sri Lanka with me.
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*Some of the people names have been changed for privacy reasons
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