I am sitting at the Colombo Fort Railway Station. The old dilapidated structure is rusty but has not lost its charm. A set of iron benches lay parallel to each other, neatly organized in blocks of 4, one behind the other.
The cleanliness is strikingly admirable. I am also impressed with the civic sense while our tickets get checked. A gentleman raises and offers his seat to me. He asks if I am from India. I answer in affirmative. The conversation then shifts to my itinerary for the next few days.
Preparing the itinerary was not easy. Sri Lanka offers a unique combination of mountains, beaches, waterfalls. Of history, culture and mythology. And adventure, calm and serene. This helped it in building a case for itself against other popular destinations like Maldives and Bali. But my research left me confused - for there is so much to see and do. I decided to take assistance.
My friends, Abhishek and Aakash, were of great help. Aakash is planning to visit the island nation and had a draft itinerary ready. Abhishek had toured Sri Lanka in December last year. So his word had the backing of experience. The internet also did its thing. I finally settled on this route:
Colombo - Nuwara Eliya - Ella - Unawatuna - Ahangama - Welligama - Mirissa - Galle - Colombo.
The Station Master informs me that the train is late. By an hour. Over the course of next seven days, I will realize that trains are usually late in Sri Lanka. I now get impatient listening to the honking and seeing trains come and go. The Colombo heat is also taking its toll. But then I meet Ravi. Ravi is 8-year-old, cute and is traveling to Kandy with his family.
We get chatting. His infectious smile comes as a breath of fresh air. He likes cricket but is too young to know any Sri Lankan players or understand the technicalities of the game. He understands English but his mother is answering on his behalf. Sometimes she adds her own points to the answer. This helps us converse.
Amidst the bustling chaos and my never-ending questions to Ravi, the sound of the horn reverberates, sending the waiting passengers in a frenzy. The Station Master confirms. The Train to Nanu Oya is here!
Nanu Oya is the nearest station to reach Nuwara Eliya. A quaint little town nestled in the Central Province of Sri Lanka. The hill station is unapologetically beautiful, with the architecture of the buildings striking a strong resemblance to the English countryside. The colonial influence is hard to ignore. The crops and tea estates take up most of the real estate - making it look green. And by green, I mean GREEN. There is so much greenery in Nuwara Eliya that every picture clicked is a postcard.
The train is not just late. It is late by almost 4 hours. At Kandy, I bid goodbye to Ravi. I think he is tired of my inquisitiveness. But he smiles, the same infectious one, waves an enthusiastic goodbye and deboards. After a few hours, my mind, body and soul are on the verge of giving up. The journey has become too long and arduous. It is another 30 minute drive from the station to Magnolia Hideout, the BnB where I retire for the night.
The morning is cold and slow. I am excited to get on the road. In India, we grow up watching, reading and listening to the epic of Ramayana. It is even part of the school curriculum in some parts of the country. So my first stop in Nuwara Eliya, understandably, is the Seetha Amman Temple.
The temple is dedicated to Goddess Sita and is said to be the Ashok Vatika, as is mentioned in the Ramayana, where Lord Hanuman meets Goddess Sita, while she was held in captive by the Ravana.
I offer prayers, not just for myself, but for the whole family. The priest chants their name, without gathering a sweat on the number. This is a first for me, anywhere in the world.
After the divine experience, I am enroute Gregory Lake. It's beauty is magnified by the clear blue sky and the bright sunshine that reflects in the water akin to glass. It is an artificial lake but I am amazed by it's maintenance and upkeep.
In my attempt to experience the beauty up and close, I decide to take the speed boat ride. Man, it was adrenaline pumping stuff. My heart raced and stopped every time the driver took steep turns, all while maintaining high speed. There are many water sport activities around the lake, but for me, this is the end of it.
I leave but not without planning to come back, for an evening cycling stroll at the lake.
I move on to my next adventure. A different one albeit. The Lover's Leap Waterfall. I don’t know the story behind the name. And I was so caught-up in traveling that I forgot to enquire. It’s a little off-beat and does not get many visitors. Off-beat travel is my thing and this fit the bill.
The way to the falls involves a hike of around 500 m, across the tea plantations. Easy and incredibly scenic. It's so calm that you can hear the sound the falls throughout. The setting is almost cinematic, with cloud formations, mist and a panoramic view of the town uphill. The fall itself is nothing extraordinary though. But as the cliche goes:
“The journey is more beautiful than the destination”
While in Nuwara Eliya, food is never a problem. The Ambaal’s restaurant has got us covered with the authentic South Indian food. Their Sambhar is delicious and worth salivating. One of the best I have had. The service is lacklustre but the food makes me overlook that as I end up visiting it multiple times. Of course, being just a few minutes away from my stay helps.
I decide to skip the common tourist destinations, like the Botanical Garden. Not only are they exorbitantly priced (3500 LKR per person), there is nothing special that attracts me. I have one day and I realize I have to pick and prioritize.
What attracts me though, is the Nuwara Eliya Post office. The red brick-themed colonial style architecture is eye-pleasing. I ask Dilshan if we can stop here for a while. Dilshan is the Tuk-Tuk driver who is taking responsibility of my sight-seeing in Nuwara Eliya.
We take a 5-minute halt. I get to know it is one of the most oldest Post Offices in Sri Lanka. For the lovers of nostalgia and if you happen to be from the generation that value writing letters, you can buy post stamps and send postcards.
There is more to explore in Nuwara Eliya. Ramboda falls. Adam’s Peak. The paucity of time is not allowing me to go beyond. My time here is up as I have my train booked to Ella. It is time to take the most scenic train ride in Asia - the Ella Odyssey.
Written as Ella and pronounced as ‘Elle’, I am corrected as I set foot in this ‘hip’ land. The tuk-tuk drivers are engaged in the battle of ‘vocals’ at the railway station, looking to one up the other, and convince the tourists to commute with them. As is the case mostly, the one with better negotiation skills wins.
The weather in Ella is slightly notorious - the days are sunny and it starts pelting just after the lunch hits the human body. It’s less colder than Nuwara Eliya though.
I don’t waste any time and get straight to café exploration. The crowd is not much - distributed with efficacy across the eating places. After menu-checking, I settle on Cafe UFO for the night.
In the morning, Chamara tells me we are going to the famous Nine-Arch Bridge - a protractor-shaped railway bridge standing on nine pillars surrounded by thick flora on both sides. Chamara will be doing what Dilshan did in Nuwara Eliya. He is based out of Kithal Ella, a small village adjoining Ella. The attraction for which the village is famous is the Kithal Ella Waterfall.
Chamara stays in Ella though. He runs a homestay by the name of Ella Sunrise View, a newly renovated accommodation. The single-room homestay is cute and cozy, offering breathtaking views of the Kithal Ella Fall and the Ella Rock.
The view makes it exceptional. But the real charm is Chamara. He has his own Tuk-Tuk in which he offers his guests special sightseeing packages. This is a juicy package. I didn’t know this when I booked with him.
You must have come across pictures or reels on social media, of people posing while hanging out of the train as it passes through the bridge. The Nine-arch Bridge for you. It is placed between Ella and Demodara Railway station and can also be visited if you are doing the train journey after Ella.
But I get down at Ella. I take a 30-minute road trip and a 15-minute walk to reach the bridge. The bridge is more than 100-years-old and has stood the test of time. It also stands as a testament to the colonial-era construction. There are multiple points from where you can view the passing of the train on the bridge. Chamara leads us all the way down to the bridge. He even obliges for pictures, happily.
I am no Harry Potter fan. But I am told that the sight of train passing across the bridge has a connection with the immensely popular fiction novel. It looks scenic, straight out of a children's story book.
I stand admiring the construction. To be able to conceive, innovate and execute, even a century ago - marvelous! The sun has reached over our heads and we are on the move again.
Chamara is a man of few words. But he understands quickly. I can see he is trying to go over and above to make us feel comfortable. The hospitality and kindness has stayed with me. It usually does.
We are now on our way to the Ravana Pool Club. I ask Chamara about the prices, but he is unsure. I reach and enquire. The Pool Club entry is priced at 19,500 LKR for two. And you get food worth 4,500 LKR in this deal. Not bad, honestly.
I am here for the iconic view of the Ella Rock and Little Adam’s Peak, which no other places offers better. The place is buzzing with palpable energy in the evening. I would have love to spent more time here.
My next stop is the Ravana Falls. No hike. No walk. The fall can be sighted from the passing road and can be easily visited. It is the most crowded attraction I have visited in Sri Lanka, yet.
The falls are long, with water gushing down in multiple trenches, splitting between the big and heavy rocks. It makes for a ambient background for photos and the 21st century human civilization has gone absolutely berserk in trying to get some shots from weird angles and sometimes even risking their lives.
I am starving and what better than to grab a Bhutta, Challi or Eringu as they call it in Lanka from a nearby street-hawker. The clouds take the lead over the sun as Chamara tell me me that it might start raining anything now.
I ask Chamara if we can make a quick stop at the Secret Waterfall. He nods in agreement. Another off-beat and less visited place. By this time, I have come to realize that Sri Lanka is not just the land of mountains and beaches. It’s the land of Waterfalls too.
Secret Waterfall involves a small hike through a dense jungle. Easy and thrilling. Again, very calm and serene. I have already had a practice session at the Lover’s Leap falls and hence this one doesn’t feel daunting. Only that this time, the journey and the destination are both beautiful.
The Eringu has run it's course and stomach growls are getting louder. But we decide to make one last stop at the Uva Halpewatte Tea Factory.
Tea and Sri Lanka are often spoken in a single sentence, for their relationship has been long-lasting and celebrated across the world. The way to the Uva Tea factory is giving me chills. It starts raining and it looks like a beauty spell has been cast on Ella. Nature in all it's glory. The route is steep but Chamara is going about his business without a sweat.
There is no shortage of food options in Ella. I ask Chamara to drop me at Matey’s Hut. My friend Abhishek had praised this place highly and I was now going to find out. Matey's Hut is famous for authentic Sri Lankan food, at a reasonable price. It stands out among the plethora of Cafe's that light up the Ella Street. It is situated at a secluded corner of an inclined street.
The night is reserved for Cafe Hopping. Tonight it is Ella 360. Their live music attracts me and Dosa on the menu confirms the booking with them.
I plan to hike the Little Adam’s peak next morning. The rains have been heavy since last night and today is no different. I don’t have another day as the beaches are calling. Little Adam’s Peak trek was one of the most anticipated activity of my trip which I have to forego.
It's time to move to the South but there is no direct train connectivity. Bus is a straight no, mainly due to safety and time issues. Thanks to Chamara’s hospitality, I have a cab ready for my next destination.
It is time to bid goodbye to Chamara and meet Shashi, who will be my companion for the journey to my next destination - Unawatuna.
….To be continued in Part 2.
*Some of the people names have been changed for privacy reasons.
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