There is something the body recognizes before the mind catches up.
I know this because Big Bear taught me. Not all at once, but slowly, the way any real knowing arrives. We had driven up from the San Fernando Valley, from Northridge, from the house where my daughter was born and my grandmother died and my mother’s grief had settled into the walls like weather. We left with an estate sale behind us and an RV in front of us and no fixed destination except the feeling that somewhere there was a place that would make sense.
Big Bear made sense.
Not immediately. The first days were still searching. But something began to settle in me the way elevation settles the air, quietly, without announcement. The town was small, 6,000 people full time, pine trees everywhere, a lake that caught the light differently in every season. Four seasons. That mattered more than I could have explained at the time. I had grown up in Albuquerque and spent decades in the Valley and I did not know until Big Bear that I had been waiting my whole life for winter to actually arrive, for spring to mean something, for the particular quality of light that only exists when the air is cold and clear and the trees are holding snow on their branches like an offering.
We called the weekend visitors Flatlanders. They would pour up the mountain on Fridays and clog the roads and park badly and move through the town with that particular energy of people on vacation, slightly unmoored, slightly too loud. And I would feel a mild irritation and also, underneath it, a quiet pride. They were coming here. To my home. To the place I got to live inside every single day while they got it for two nights and a Sunday morning.
That pride told me something.
What told me more was the leaving. Once a month, sometimes twice, we would go down the hill. Costco. Walmart. My mother’s cardiologist. The 330 dropping away from the mountain, the elevation falling, the trees thinning, the air changing character. I would reframe the reluctance into purpose. We need supplies. This is practical. This is fine.
And it was fine. Until the return.
There was a place on the 330 coming back up, I cannot tell you the exact mile marker, somewhere in the middle of the climbing where the road begins its long looping curves and the pines close back in and the air shifts again, and something in me would simply settle. Not arrive. Settle. Like something that had been slightly displaced finding its exact location again. I would feel the elevation in my chest before I could see it in the trees. I would feel the mountain recognize me back.
I did not have language for this at the time. I just knew that I had never felt it anywhere else. I assumed I always would.
I was right about the feeling. I was wrong about the place being its only location.
When I left Big Bear in 2014, I spent five years in Texas learning the precise shape of what I had lost. Not through grief exactly, but through absence. Through heat that never broke and landscape that never changed and the particular exhaustion of living somewhere your nervous system cannot fully settle into. I knew what home felt like now. I knew it in my body. And I knew Texas was not it.
Coeur d’Alene was my idea.
I got here two days before Christmas of 2019, drove in after six days on the road with my cats in their carriers and my most important things in a rented Yukon XL, and I stepped out into the cold Idaho air and something happened that I recognized immediately. The same settling. The same interior landing. Not a memory of Big Bear but the same thing Big Bear had been pointing to all along.
This is the part I could not have understood while I was still living in Big Bear. What I felt on that mountain was not about the mountain. It was consciousness recognizing the conditions in which it could most fully inhabit a life. The pine trees, the elevation, the four seasons, the smallness, the distance from the noise of the city below were not the cause of the feeling. They were the form it took. The feeling itself was something older and more continuous, something that moves underneath all the surfaces and simply becomes visible when the conditions align.
Coeur d’Alene is Big Bear expanded. The lake here is larger. The mountains extend in every direction rather than rising from a desert floor. I can drive an hour north and still be inside the same beauty rather than dropping out of it. What I loved in Big Bear was not lost when I left. It was waiting to be recognized at a larger scale.
I know this now because I came home from Costa Rica once. I had been there going through something large and difficult, releasing patterns that had been with me for years, and somewhere in the middle of all that release I just wanted to come home. Not to a concept. To this specific place. To Dakota waiting at the airport. To the particular quality of the air when you step off the plane in Spokane and drive the thirty minutes east and the lake appears and the trees close in around the road.
When I landed I could breathe again.
That is what home is. Not the place that made you feel it first. The place that keeps making you feel it, deeper each time, because you have more capacity now to receive what it is actually offering.
Big Bear taught me recognition.
Coeur d’Alene revealed what had been there all along.

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