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Print history in Antwerp
visit the Plantin-Moretus museum today!

(30 May 2025)

Architecture at the Haven Huis in Antwerp

After a few days in Prague, we got the sleeper to Antwerp, and stayed a night there. We had the best part of a day to explore before coming home.

Looking down the track from the train window

The journey was fine. Yes the train is unpleasantly dirty but you get to see lots of the countryside of Czechia and southern Germany.

We mooched around Antwerp - it’s a large city but the main touristy area is small. Like Prague, my advice is use the trams. Tap to pay, just like using the Tube in London. Easy.

The pretty houses on Grote Markt

Looking up at the cathedral spires

The Grote Markt is as pretty as you might have been told. We had a good meal in Balto’s restaurant. There are pretty streets with cute shops and the usual lanes to wander - but it felt much more touristy than we’d expected. Nice to explore though.

The courtyard in the Plantin-Moretus museum

Moveable type in the museum

Cases for fonts in the museum

By far the best thing was the Plantin-Moretus Museum of Printing, which is amazing. Not just because of the subject matter - a family dynasty that built a business empire out of the newly invented printing press, and now you can explore the house and the premises and the library and everything - but also because of the way it’s been done. It’s an incredibly well-thought-out museum. Good design everywhere you look. Fabulous.

One of the printed maps

This printing company invented atlases. You can see some of the earliest atlases ever, up close.

Art on the walls

Interactive displays

We spent hours in there. Honestly, I’d say it’s so good, that you could go to Antwerp solely to visit this museum, and you’d feel like you’d got your money’s worth. Highly recommended. Oh, and it has a pair of the oldest printing presses in the world, just sitting there at the end of the room. You peer at them and wonder how many millions of words went through each one, and what ideas those words sparked.

the ceiling of Brussels Eurostar terminal

Kate on an escalator

Then it was back to Brussels, and back home via the Eurostar.

All good, all good.


Some recommendations:

More stuff:


giles (at) gilest.org

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