I’ve now visited the Dolomites twice, and the second trip confirmed everything I loved about the first. In many ways, it was even better. That initial trip helped me understand the geography, the different regions, and how they fit together. Returning meant I could spend less time figuring things out and more time simply enjoying them. I knew which places I wanted to revisit, where I wanted to stay longer, and what I’d do differently.
One thing I didn’t fully appreciate until that first visit was just how vast the Dolomites are. It’s easy to picture everything as fairly close together. In reality, choosing where to base ourselves was one of the biggest decisions we made, because each area felt like a completely different trip.
We divided our time to experience two distinct sides of the region, spending the first half in Cortina for access to legendary alpine lakes and dramatic peaks before moving west to Ortisei, a walkable town with cable cars running straight up to Seceda and Alpe di Siusi. It proved to be a perfect study in contrasts.
When I think of the Dolomites, it wasn’t a single hike or viewpoint that stood out most. It was the sheer scale of the landscape: soaring peaks, rolling meadows, and the sound of cowbells that left a lasting impression. To really appreciate it, we chose a slower pace. Most days revolved around one memorable activity rather than trying to fit in several. Afternoons ended in the spa, followed by an unhurried dinner. This was the daily rhythm, and it suited me perfectly.
Read on for where we stayed, how we got around, memorable bike rides, hikes worth the effort, and the mountain huts I still think about. I'm also sharing what I packed for the trails.
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