The Joie Review No. 15

There are only a few days left in the year, and my boring, cliché instinct is to write something like, “I can’t wait to turn the page on this rough year.” But don’t we say that every December? Every year, we seem ready to toss the last 12 months in the bin and place all our hopes on the next one.

And yet…this year was damn hard. So yes, I’m still looking forward to tossing it in the bin and placing all my hopes on the next one. Hahahahhahahah!

According to numerology, 2025 is a “9” year (2+0+2+5 = 9), which symbolizes the end of a cycle. It’s also the year of the wood snake in the Chinese zodiac, which is a time for transformation and shedding what no longer serves us. 2026 is the year of the fire horse, a rare and intense year in the Chinese zodiac, known for its bold, rebellious energy. It’s also considered the beginning of a new cycle when you add up the numbers.

I’m not an expert in Chinese astrology or numerology, and to be honest, I am not even sure I believe in it all. But I do love the poetry of it. Because what I really want is to shed all the weight and weirdness of 2025, hop on my fire horse of hope, and ride into something fresh. Not start over exactly, but definitely start again.

Even if you don’t believe in numerology or zodiac symbolism, I’m sure there’s something (or someone?) you’re ready to release. A habit, a storyline, a weight that doesn’t belong to you anymore.

With the holiday frenzy, I had every intention of sharing a proper gift guide weeks ago, but the idea... well, it took off and crashed.

If I had to give you a “two-days-left” gift guide, it would be this: books. Always. Head to your local bookstore and you will surely find something. For your Francophone friend and family, I can recommend my book JOIE (of course) for someone who needs more joy in 2026, The Eater Guide to Paris by Lindsey Tramuta for the person planning a trip to Paris soon, the rereleased Ready for Dessert by David Lebovitz or Baking with Dorie by Dorie Greenspan for the home baker in your life, or Paris Everyday by Rebecca Plotnick for the armchair travel who needs to finally plan that trip to Paris. Books are always a good way to go.

To be honest, I’m not a huge fan of sharing holiday gift guides anyway. There are too many of them. I’d rather share a more thoughtful, year-round gifting guide in the spring that isn’t about frenzied consumption, but about generous, beautiful giving for hosts, mothers, fathers, friends, and anyone who could use a smile. And since I will be riding my fire horse, I promise to get that to you.
Bisous xx, Ajiri

When I first came to Paris as a grad student, I was working on my thesis, hanging out in cafés, loafing around, and trying to line up a job that would help me stay legally. A sent me to her dad’s friend, Tim Johnston, who owned Juveniles, a bistro and wine bar near the Palais Royal.

Tim said he couldn’t give me a job without a visa, but he did invite me to lunch and told me everything I needed to know about good food and wine in Paris. For some reason, I hadn’t been back until recently, when Laura Adrian from Verjus invited me for lunch.

Tim has since retired and passed the restaurant on to his daughter, Margaux, and her partner, Romain Roudeau. The space is small and cozy, with just a few tables surrounded by boxes and shelves of wine, and an open kitchen where you can see all the action. The menu features daily specials and market-fresh finds.

I love that it’s still family-owned and operated, and the food was both interesting and delicious. I’m hoping the sautéed calamari with tagliatelle of celery root will still be on the menu the next time I visit, but honestly, I’d be happy to discover something new if everything tastes that good.

Juveniles
📍47 Rue de Richelieu, 75001 Paris | Website | Instagram

Clamato is also one of those popular places I had oddly only been to once because I don’t love waiting in epic lines, and because it’s a seafood-focused spot and I have a few annoying allergies.

Thanks to a recent dinner date with David Lebovitz, I was happy to rediscover this relaxed seafood restaurant from the team behind the also-hard-to-get-into Septime, and to learn there’s much more on the menu than just shellfish.

We started by sharing oysters, then moved on to a spicy ceviche, a Caesar salad, and several vegetable dishes. I was pleasantly surprised by how many veggie options there were, all flavorful, thoughtful, and beautifully plated.

Clamato
📍80 Rue de Charonne, 75011 Paris | Website

The famous Le Castiglione, known affectionately as Le Casti, was a fashion world hotspot for over 30 years. It was the kind of place you might walk into during fashion week and end up sitting next to Naomi Campbell, Kate Moss or André Leon Talley.

The owner, Fabrice Couet, and his ever-present spaniel were part of its charm. In 2023, the original location on rue Castiglione closed when the space was taken over by a retail developer and turned into a Gucci store.

Now, they’re back, but just a bit farther from their original home. The new location at Place de la Madeleine brings back the same plush red interiors and familiar energy. The famous Casti burger is still on the menu and is even slightly more affordable now at 26 euros.

Other offerings include a mushroom omelet, sole meunière, steaks, chicken, and tartare. On weekends only, they serve “Grandma’s roasted chicken with mashed potatoes,” which feels like a very good reason to plan a visit.

Le Castiglione
📍8 Place de la Madeleine, 75008 Paris | Website | Instagram

Sant Ambroeus, the famous Milanese pastry shop that opened in the 1930s and was later bought and turned into a New York institution in the 1980s, has just opened a location in the 6th arrondissement. After expanding to 16 locations—including Milan, Aspen, and Palm Beach—the latest outpost has taken over the former Silencio des Prés space in Saint-Germain-des-Prés.

They open from 7:30 a.m., hoping to attract the morning coffee crowd with 5€ espresso at the counter, and stay open until midnight for the late-night dinner crew. It’s perfectly located just around the corner from the café-bistro legends Café de Flore, Les Deux Magots, and Brasserie Lipp, as well as the chic cocktail spot Cravan.

This one belongs on any list of design-lover destinations, with interiors by Fabrizio Casiraghi. The space is filled with lacquered wood, brass lamps, peach and olive carpets, velvet upholstery, a few Corbusier prints, and a striking bas-relief by François Gilles depicting the Milanese Duomo and the New York skyline.

This one felt completely true to the New York location with the vibe and the menu. My friend and I started with a radicchio salad, an artichoke salad, and a lentil salad, followed by the osso buco with gnocchi and the cotoletta alla milanese.

According to Le Monde, the Paris location is aiming to feel more welcoming than the exclusive NYC vibe. However, I happened to be seated between Caroline de Maigret and Alireza Niroomand, the brand’s artistic director. So... we shall see about that.

Sant Ambroeus Paris
📍11 Rue Saint-Benoît, 75006 Paris | Website | Instagram

Turning the Spotlight on Epiphany: 5 Things You Need to Know

I know the year’s not over yet, but you’ve got to line up what you’re doing that first week back, right?

1. A crown, a cake, and a quiet celebration
January 6 marks Epiphany, the official end of the holiday season and the beginning of something new. In France, it’s less about pageantry and more about gathering around a galette des rois, breaking pastry together, and seeing who gets crowned king or queen for the day. (Also I admit that sometimes the celebration isn’t quiet if kids or big kids decide to fight for that crown.)

2. The hidden charm of the fève
Traditionally, a fève, or tiny porcelain trinket, is baked into the galette. Whoever finds it in their slice gets to wear the crown. And maybe gets a tooth crown too if they bite into the damn thing too hard. Some people collect fèves year after year as small tokens of luck, nostalgia, and a little whimsy.

3. The first ritual of the new year
Epiphany is a soft landing after the sparkle of December. It’s not about resolutions or reinvention. It’s just about sharing a flaky almond pastry with people you love and maybe wearing a paper crown while doing it. (It also happens to be the day before my birthday, so it sometimes doubles as my birthday cake with family and friends.)

4. A holiday without pressure
What I love about Epiphany in France is that it’s not performative. No gifting, no over-decorating, and no big meal prep. Just a warm galette, and the pleasure of a simple shared tradition.

5. There’s more than one kind of galette and technically more than one day to eat it
The traditional galette des rois is made with puff pastry and almond frangipane. In the south of France, you’ll also find a brioche-style version studded with candied fruit, which I have to admit, I’m not a fan of. Love brioche, but don’t love candied fruit.

Galette celebrations aren’t limited to January 6. You’ll see them in bakeries throughout the month, and that’s part of the fun. It’s January, we need a little joy, so why not stretch it out all month long?

Bonus: The price tag might surprise you
Many bakeries in France charge for their galettes by weight, which is something I have never fully understood. Galettes are priced far higher than most cakes year-round. I’ve recently learned about a few galettes from rather glamorous spots that offer a flat rate, so there are no surprises except the fève. They also offer click-and-collect options, which makes the whole experience feel that much more civilized. Info and pics below.

Ritz Paris Le Comptoir is offering two galettes this year, including a bold new Toasted Corn Galette filled with almond and polenta frangipane, a gooey caramel center, and topped with popcorn and chocolate sand roses. For the more traditionalists, there’s the Frangipane King Cake, available in both a generous shareable version and a pretty individual one wrapped in croissant dough. Both galettes come with limited-edition fèves inspired by the two Paris locations. If you just want a little taste, then go for the Frangipane Madeleine. You can click-and-collect from both locations.

Order Here
Available for pre-order from December 26, 2025 and in stores from January 1, 2026
King Cake with Toasted Corn: €75 — Serves 6 to 8
Frangipane King Cake: €65 — Serves 8 to 10
Individual Frangipane King Cake: €9
Frangipane Madeleine: €5

At Le Royal Monceau Raffles Paris, chefs Yazid Ichemrahen and Alexandre Favre have created a beautiful traditional galette. The puff pastry is made with Normandy butter and ancient grain flour, wrapped around a classic almond frangipane. Each galette is caramelized on top for a glossy finish and hand-slashed with exactly 65 scalpel cuts, making it look like a little jewel. I tasted it, and let me tell you that it is really delicious and buttery. Plus, it’s a stunner on a table.

55€ (serves 6–8)
Pre-order at least 48 hours in advance
Available for pickup between January 2–25, 2026
Order here

A few things that brought me joie recently: Catching a pink sky while making tea before school drop off, a beautiful architecturally framed mirror en route to a doctor appointment, and going on a self-guided walking tour hunting down caryatids with a friend as a fun way to catch up.