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Eyal’s Substack · Jul 22, 2026

Getting Lost

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Eyal Schwartz · Eyal’s Substack

I turn off my cell phone in the tent. Regardless (ok, I got to bring that wrong Irregardless term. It’s wrong but feels right), there’s no reception anyways. And the trees provide sufficient shade. So I should be able to wake up late (meaning 8am). The woodpecker alarm set off much earlier. What’s wrong with them. No respect for lazy campers. But it was cool nevertheless. Roee caught him on tape (or her, I need a birdographer to tell us what it is, and someone to add this word to the English dictionary). The truth is that it coincided with the nearby road work noise but that is so much less cool story to tell.

Today is going to be a long day.

We pondered about the route for a while. It was supposed to be a long zigzag, but due to the heat, we’re changing it to a normal day. Not going back East to Weaverville on 36. We wouldn’t have been able to pull it off anyways. Starting at Calahan, via Cecilville, to Somes Bar is a slow narrow river canyon road. Then the fast curves of 96, to 299, 3, 36 and to the Lost Coast. Wow. A rough 330 miles. But the eastern heat wave saved us. We skipped 299 (east), 3, and 36, and took 299 west to the Lost Coast. What a great ride. From narrow canyon road to fast sweepers, and remote no-mans-land lost coast broken road, via an added logging road with crazy truckers racing through and country people tubing in a fun river. We even had some minor hard-pack gravel just to confirm that my 80/20 tires are really bad off pavement (as if I didn’t know, the rider too). Great roads, great sites, and an amazing destination. We didn’t take too many photos, but we have a consensus that this would be the best riding day.

Oh, and we were able to watch some of the world cup game in our lunch stop in Willows Creek. Speaking of which, this trip coincided with the quarter & semi-finals. I watched the tournament prepping for this stage only to bail out and ride the west coast instead. A great tradeoff. I’d take it any time. This trip would be one to remember for life. I can already feel it. We are dancing here 24/7 on the roads, & in camp in a way that cannot be captured in any way. Not even in memory. It is just it. To be experienced viscerally as it happens. I think the best experiences are indeed so. They cannot be captured. Only experienced as they happen. Conclusion: Play, experience it as it happens every day all day if you can. Be it profound world changing, people saving experience, or just a fun motorcycle turn on the road, or a good laugh with a friend.

(approaching the Lost Coast’s Mattel Beach from north)

We picked up groceries in remote lost coast Victorian Ferndale. What a weird place. It’s a tiny town with fancy Victorian architecture. Worth a visit if you ever get lost in the Lost Coast (my 2nd time. Love it). Tonight we will cook our meal, no freeze dry food.

We arrived at Mattole campground. Exactly as magical as I remembered it, except this time the approach was from the north, last time I approached from the south, and this approach is much more beautiful since you come down the mountain/hills towards the coast and see it opens up beautifully. The campsite had plenty of open spots, and quite a few riders. Last time I was here with Jeff it was before it became part of CA BDRX (an extension to the Backcountry Discovery Routes). There were no riders then. We met a bunch of riders my age who are doing the real route on more fitting offroad motorcycles. We had some long motorcycle chat. They were super nice but then didn’t quite join them. We wanted to stick to our vibe. And it was wonderful. Magical. Amazing.

This time, we knew to bring firewood cause it’s on the coast. The temperatures were perfect. No fire ban. We had a fire and chatted until late. The dinner included proper Israeli thin cut salad, and augmented canned chili (vegetarian for me). And beer. And a huge starry dark sky. I only recognize the big dipper. So does Roee. It’s a reliable marker in this part of the world. We can be astronomers, no?

We walked the beach a bit, and called it a day. The best riding day. Most varied. Best destination. Best company. Best temperature. Best campsite. No running water. Only an ocean going all the way to China. What else one can ask for. Paradise at the Lost Coast.

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